There wasn't much to find out about the area while researching this Datça climbing expedition, but I did come across a photo of this big piece of rock and hoped that we'd be able to climb it. Today was our day!
Unusually, for a route of alpine scale, we were able to park right at the base of the cliff! Very handy indeed. We got straight into harnesses and crossed the road to begin our journey...
The route was put up in 2016, but I could only find one record of anyone else having climbed it! The bottom section was 'overgrown' to say the least, but via an incredible series of treads and bolts, the way ahead was followed past bushes, flowers and shrubs - and sometimes through them.
It wasn't long before clothes took the brunt of the battle!
These were the kinds of anchors we were following!
Some inspired more confidence than others!!
At about 100m up the cliff comes the crux pitches, which involved some sensational climbing up a vertical section. The rough rock was covered in these harder orange lumps cemented into the limestone. (a bit like the 'chicken heads' on the Dewerstone in Devon, if you've ever climbed there).
They were just big enough for some delicate and at times strenuous climbing. Wild stuff!
Although the 'hardest pitch' was now behind us, the higher ones became more exposed!
An amazing hand traverse took us out to the arete and a hanging belay that dropped right back down to the road!
Then a final steep section on enormous holds led up to the summit ridge and easier ground.
It was a wild bit of route finding and we couldn't help but marvel at the first ascensionists!
Finally, and now in the baking heat of the full sunshine, we went up the summit ridge as fast as possible.
These colourful, spiky plans were all over the place - really pretty but best not touched!
And then, finally, we were on top! Very happy indeed! What an adventurous journey!
We had a long lunch, while we cooled down and changed into trainers for the descent, which follows a 'trail' down the far side of the mountain.
The 'trail' hasn't really had enough traffic to actually be a trail yet, but it was well marked with loads of small cairns to prevent you getting lost in the spiky undergrowth.
It's dense forest to get back to the road, so we did not want to loose the trail!
It took about 40 minutes and a couple of dead ends, but we made it back to the road, extatically happy.
The route goes up the centre of the sunny triangular face, then under the final overhangs to the left arete.
Cooling off was done in the sea! Where we saw a couple of small octopus!! What a day! Utterly shattered....
Match Lunules, 6b***
- 6 pitches and 100m of roped ridge scrambling
- 180m. Keeps the shade until around 14:00
- 4hrs 30mins up (40mins down)
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