New Years Eves

For us, it’s not all about the climbs and the grades. It’s about the feeling, the ambiance and the environment. Having walked into our chosen cliff (Hot Rock), this morning, we found so many people at the base of the climbs that we turned around and walked away. Plan B (Twin Caves), also had its parking area overflowing with hire cars. We moved in again. Spotting a small cliff with a 25min walk-in, we managed to escape the crowds completely. The slight extra effort to get there seemed to have put most people off. 

We spent a tranquil last day of the year enjoying some great routes, all to ourselves. And with an impressive vista behind us too.

When we lost the sunshine at 15:30, we tried our luck back up at Twin Caves, where there are some great routes, but the vibe was completely different. All different nationalities were represented and there were probably still at least 40 or more climbers all jostling for routes! Not our scene at all. I climbed a couple of out of the way pitches, then we legged it! Even then, someone nearby almost swung onto my route when they fell off. We carried on up the hill to catch the last of the 2017 sunlight from a view point on top of the highest cliffs. A stunning place to watch the sun set on the year.

Back home, another cake had mysteriously appeared on the kitchen table for us! ‘Traditional Greek Cake’ we were later told. Luckily, it was no where near as tasty as the previous ones, otherwise I’d have probably polished it off and made myself ill!

To celebrate the New Years Eve, we treated ourselves to dining out at Margarit’s restaurant at the Port, (a few mins walk away from the house). It was as delicious and hilarious as we’d both expected and hoped! No menus were offered, but we were given the choice of a few dishes which all came with the description of ‘very nice’. We were very happy that we got to try some traditional ‘Musskka’, which was indeed ‘very nice’, especially when washed down with the bottle of local beer that we were offered to share! And of course, obligatory sugar coated cakes to finish. In the unique ambiance of the room, we had a very fun evening. 

Under a bright and clear moonlight sky, looking out to sea, we toasted in the year on the balcony, with the chink of a champagne glass feeling very happy.

Arésos:

- Agrodinami, 5c

- Terpnon, 6a+

- Vervesos, 6b

- French TV (+ extension), 6a

Twin Caves:

- Peripatos, 6a+***

- Nanaki, 6a+

Leonidio Life

There’s such a chilled vibe around here, that there’s never the feeling that we should rush out to climb. We get woken by the sunlight pouring through the balcony doors and start our day with a hot drink, then some al fresco breakfasting. It was so glorious today, that we went straight to the beach and read in the delightful morning sunshine. There was no one about again and it felt like we were the only people here. The intention had been to swim, but the wind picked up and put us off a bit. Instead we returned back to the pad for a toast session.

We made it out to go climbing eventually. On the long and winding road up the valley there are loads of little shrines at intervals along the way. They seem to have different  things in them and in the evening a candle is often lit. I’ve never seen such homage to tomato ketchup and mayonnaise though.

The crag we climbed at was called Cuckoo Grande and has some great little routes on it. 

On the way home we picked up a few supplies in town before heading home to the fireside.

Cuckoo Grande:

- 

Climbing at Theós, Leonidio

Full body work out today. Loads of brilliant routes. Arms pumped and fingers sore from super sharp sunny rock. Brilliant. Celebrated with a drink at ‘Margarits’ quirky bar at the port after dark. 

Theós Right:

- Boltman (+extension), 5c

- Madball, 6a

- Spanakopita (+extension), 6b

- Sylver Machine, 6a+

- Ekmek, 6b

- Striplease, 6b***

Micro Theós:

- Cojones, 6b+***

Elona Monastery

We took the day to have a look around our local area today. It was a showery forecast, with heavy rain arriving later, so not ideal for rock climbing (although there is plenty of dry rock in the big caves, if you’re into the steep stuff).

I was quite glad of the enforced rest day, as we drove up the valley towards the Elona Monastery. It’s an amazing place - half way up a big cliff!

After parking the car near the cliff top, we followed the steps down and around a ledge on the cliff to the building. Above us were amazing coloured ‘tufas’ and flowstone.

The Monastery itself was pretty ancient, but newer buildings (1500 - 1800AD, according to the markings above the doors) had also been built for accommodation.

The views from the site were far reaching and despite its proximity to Leonidio town, it felt very remote.

We watched the showers pass through, leaving some good rainbows in their wake.

Eventually, the rain caught up with us. At least it meant that the new Rab test jacket that I’d been given - The ‘Valiance’ Waterproof Down Jacket, got some usage!

We sheltered under the steep crags of Elona for a while, but decided not to get involved with any climbing!

Instead we wound our way back down hill to the pad. We almost stopped in a cafe in town, until we realised that it’s still legal to smoke indoors here. It’s remarkable that it is, or ever was ok! We moved on...

As it turned out, our apartment owner had presented us with a big cake, so it was a good job we were ready for a cafe session on our own private balcony when we got back!

‘Mad Wall’ Leonidio

A blissful day of holiday climbing today. No rush, no worries, just swimming and climbing. And another beautiful blue sky start.

There was no rush to get to the crags, so our first port of call after leaving our humble abode (above!) was the beach for a swim.

We had the place to ourselves, so there was no need to rush in to things. After a bit of sunbathing and chat, we got in for a swim. Stayed in longer than on Christmas Day too. 

Early afternoon saw us hiking up towards ‘Mad Wall’ as some threatening clouds passed overhead.

The skies darkened for a while, but it was plenty warm enough for climbing. The crag was pretty much grid bolted and hard for the grade, but it was nice to be moving on the rock. 

Before sunset, we moved up to the next area which was much better. Super sharp rock too. The limestone was positively glowing in the warm evening sun. We’d have loved to stay there longer, but darkness comes quick around here and it was a tricky path to walk down on. You can just make out Clare below the big tufas above.

Once the sun had left the crag, we packed up and hiked out. After a brief stop in town for some supplies, we returned to the pad, tired and happy.

Mad Wall: 

- Happy Time, 5c (6a+?!)

- Kolatouba, 6a+

- Paparouna, 6a

- Garden of Adam, 6a+

Cave of Pangia:

- Prastos, 5c

- Led Zepplin, 5b

- Don Whillans, 6a

Mignonette, (5c), 175m Leonidio, Greece

Boxing Day 2017 was a spent climbing one of the biggest cliffs above Leonidio. The weather remained stable, so we decided to go for a bit route while we could. The views of distant snow capped mountains as we walked to the base of the cliff were amazing and crystal clear.

We’d made a bit of an effort to get going in the morning, but were far from rushing. We enjoyed juicing fresh oranges and taking breakfast out on the balcony first, so it was well past 11am by the time Clare set off up the first pitch. 

We moved fast up the ridge that marks the edge of the main cliff, following the line of bolts to one belay after another. We were soon high above the ground, overlooking the town and out to sea.

The last couple of pitches had the most exposure, as the route followed a crest of rock, with a drop on either side. The wind suddenly picked up here too and when a small cloud covered the sun, the temperature suddenly dropped. 

Clare led over the summit head wall and we were glad to be sitting on flat ground after seven pitches of climbing. The views were fab - we could see right out to where we’d swam in the sea in Christmas morning.

We’d climbed the route in two hours, with barely a rest along the way. We hungrily ate some sandwiches on top while enjoying the view. 

Having climbed the route with only a single 70m rope, we had to abseil down the way we had come. After a tense start off the windy pinnacle, we got it into the flow of our well practiced systems. I’d search out the next belay and thread, while Clare pulled down the ropes. Repeat.

Bit by bit, we descended to the warmer cliff base, buzzing with our achievements.

As we walked away, the evening sun glowed gold and red on the orange rock above.

A Greek Christmas

Our own tradition of being somewhere unusual and/or exciting for Christmas Day continued again this year. It was great arriving in the dark on Christmas Eve, as it meant that we had no idea what lay outside... Having found the apartment, we got the fire lit straight away as it was cold outside and in!

We awoke to bright sunshine streaming through the balcony windows. It was no white Christmas, but it was certainly looking like a bright one. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky!

Excitable as ever, we enjoyed a Christmas breakfast, on the terrace, out in the sun, looking out to sea. It wasn’t long until we’d walked down to the beach to do a ‘temperature check’ of the water. We were in full sunshine, but the air was still warming up.

Clare was first in for the Christmas Swim, and declared it ‘warmer than Denmark in summer’

She was right too! To our delight, it was actually warm enough for a swim (rather than my usual dive in and straight back out!).

Ok, it was quite cold, but not painful and we lasted much longer than expected!

On the walk back to the house, the local hotel owner came out to greet us in the street. After making sure that we knew she was open for drinks and food any time of day, we were presented with a ‘welcome orange’ and sent on our way! I put it in the fruit bowl with ‘Terry’s’.

Having had freshly squeezed orange juice for breakfast, after our swim we tried out some of the sugar coated cakes that had been left out for us on the table. Yum!

Eventually, in the afternoon we got ourselves up to one of the cliffs that we’d come here to climb. The view, over looking the town was spectacular and the sun on our skin felt healing. It was 23°C at the base of the cliffs!

We climbed three good routes at a sector called “Dornröschen” which had a short but steep walk in.

Once the sun hit the horizon, you could literally feel the temperatures drop. 

We climbed our last route in skins, as the shadows crept across the valley.

After packing away our gear, we sat and stared at the view while munching on some delicious Christmas cookies courtesy of Aunty Susan and Co. Thanks!

On the way home, we took a short walk through the town and popped into the climbers cafe for a coffee and to get some upto date info about some of the newest climbing areas. 

Then it was back to the pad for hot showers and Christmas Dinner - Clare and Ian style! Cheers!

Dornröschen, Leonidio:

- Three Holy Kings, 5b

- Teamwerk’5, 6a

- Benny, 6b