Sunday 31 August 2014

Clogwyn y Tarw Slab Climbs

Summer is back! Beautiful late afternoon climbing on Clogwyn y Tarw (also known asGribin Facet). Felt like a real treat to spend a late afternoon/evening climbing in T-Shirts on this easily accessible crag that has a high mountain feel to it. Being north facing, it is almost always in the shade, but on a late summer evening, the slabs catch the sun and the rock is warm to touch. As for the views - see for yourself...

View down the Nant Ffrancon
We joined up two routes to get the best combination of climbing, by setting off up the first part of 'Slab Intermediate Climb' (V.Diff) and then heading up the sunny slabs of the aptly named 'Slab Climb' (Diff).

Setting off up the first pitch of 'Slab Intermediate Route' (V.Diff)

The sunny 'Slab Climb' (Diff)

We were about to pack up and head back down when we decided to quickly nip up the 'Slab Direct Route' (V.Diff) as well. With a 60m rope, you can climb it in one pitch - but ours was only 50m - so this involved a bit of moving together to reach the spike belay at the top! Back down at the bags 20 minutes later and heading down through as the sun set, to The Cottage, for home made pizza...


View from the top of Slab Climb (V.Diff)



Friday 29 August 2014

Surf's Up - Anglesey Waves

Grim Welsh weather prevailed today, with strong winds and some heavy rain. Fortunately, there was also a descent sized swell forecast off the west coast of Anglesey. Surfing in a gale is not the most fun in the world, but a bit of local knowledge (the location of which I'm keeping to myself) meant that we could pick a secluded and sheltered beach and catch some great waves despite the rowdy weather. 

Waxing up!
This particular spot is sheltered from the strong south westerlies, so the waves wrap around the entrance of the bay and allow you to catch waves without getting too battered by the wind. There is also a strong rip, which flows out just to the entrance of the bay, but no further, providing an easy route to 'out back' without the threat of getting sucked across to Ireland. The only downside is that the waves can be a bit unpredictable - some times forming on the left, then suddenly kicking up on the right. Keeps you focused though! Super nice to be out.
Armoured up and ready for battle!

Well it wasn't the crystal clear waters of Corsica that we've recently been in, but it felt great to be back in the sea and especially on such a wild day! Rain was hammering down hard at one point, and I was glad of my cap to keep the water out of my eyes! We had wetsuits on, but it felt lovely and warm in the water. The best thing, is that there were only six people in the water at the busiest point. Felt very lucky to have such a place only half an hour from the hot showers of The Cottage.

Thursday 28 August 2014

Milestone Buttress, Ogwen

A wet start in Ogwen today! Left the sunny cottage and drove the 15 minutes round to Tryfan in the Ogwen valley to find low cloud and thick drizzle (as forecast!). Undeterred, we climbed the Milestone Buttress Approach scramble (Grade 3). A great little route that's quick to get to, has plenty of protection and plenty of polished holds to lead the way, and focus the concentration in the wet!

Milestone Approach Scramble


Emma on a belay hunt

Then Emma got us safely down the Milestone Gully to practise some more rope techniques in preparation for her Mountaineering Instructors assessment. 

Rigging an abseil from some convenient 'tat'

The rain had just about stopped by the time we'd reached the top of the descent gully, and the clouds even lifted off the tops. A safe, swift, although somewhat slimey descent was followed by a little short-roping to safe ground, then a sprint back to the car, as I had to help a friend move house, then visit another in Manchester!

Escaping the damp confines of Milestone Gully

Was back at The Cottage by 22:00, with a pretty spectacular sun set on the way...

M56 Sundown




Wednesday 27 August 2014

Dolmen Ridge, Glyder Fach

Out in Ogwen today. Went up from Ogwen Cottage to Glyder Fach main cliff - home of some big cliffs and splendid mountaineering terrain. I was with Emma and Dave who were keen to practice various scrambling techniques in preperation for their forthcoming Mountaineering Instructor Assessments. 
It's just under an hour up to the base of the cliff. After a bit of 'discussion' about which was the fastest route, we opted for going round the west side of the lake, which was fast, but boggy!
Emma leading the charge!
There is a new Scrambling Guide to North Wales which starts the Dolmen Ridge Route on the left hand side of the gully (as opposed to the old guide which starts you in the left). It actually makes the route a bit more logical, and involves a bit of excitement up this big pinnacle!

Emma heading up the steep stuff

Quality belay!?

Near the top with Tryfan in the background
We bailed off down the gully from near the top (not recommended as it's full of unstable scree) to practice some evacuation techniques, then after checking out a few other routes headed back down to Ogwen Cottage, just as the gales arrived!


Tuesday 26 August 2014

Evening Equinox

After a productive (if somewhat frustrating) day or two of work in and around The Cottage, the weather dried up and allowed an early evening slate session. After a very nice (and larger than average) ice cream from Georgio's in Llanberis, we found that time was slightly against us, as we had hoped to nip into the Llanberis Pass. As always, the Slate was on hand to get a quick climbing fix. Bus Stop Quarry is hard to beat for convenience and quality. Equinox VS(4c) and Solstace HVS (5a) or a combination of the two are both ace routes, with plenty of protection as well as interest. Pure pleasure...

 Bus Stop Quarry, Llanberis - Equinox, VS (4c) 

Bus Stop Quarry, Llanberis - Equinox, VS (4c)
On the drive out of the quarry, we stopped to watch a herd of Ibex (or possibly just smelly welsh goats) stroll by...

Welsh ferral Ibex?

And then were treated to some good views over Anglesey as we drove back home over the hills...

View from Dinorwic - Reflections on the sea




Sunday 24 August 2014

Carnedd y Filiast - and the mystery if the red paint...

Took in a circuit of Carnedd y Filiast, Myndd Perfedd and Elidir Fawr today. It was a bright morning across Snowdonia, but there was a covering of high level clouds that were well above the summits until just after midday, when some heavy showers moved in. We were moving light and fast, but not fast enough to outrun the first downpour - so got a bit damp without full waterproofs on the way down Elidr Fawr!

A great circuit with beautiful views (until the rain arrived!) and stretch of the legs after a few days of rock climbing. However, it was a bit of a spoiler, as well as a big surprise to find that someone has marked the path with red paint!? Although this is a fairly common sight along footpaths in the Alps, I've (thankfully) never seen this in the UK. Very bizzare, upsetting and un-necessary graffati. Does anyone know about this?...


The Red Paint Mystery Markers
Red Paint Graffitti
Blots on the landscape
More dots on the Landscape

Away from the upland vandalism, Carnedd y Filiast gives a stunning panorama of the Snowdonia National Park, as well as views across Anglesey and as far as the Rivals on the Lleyn peninsula and the Great Orme over in the East. And even today, on a Bank Holiday Sunday, the mountain was more or less our own...

Carnedd y Filiast View





Saturday 23 August 2014

Fresh Air & Heather

Climbing in the Llanberis Slate Quarries this afternoon. After a showery morning, the rock had dried off quickly and we climbed 'Fresh Air' (6a). There was a real autumnal feel to the place today. Great colours, with real vibrant greens and greys under a bright but moody sky. We've climbed the route many times before, but it still felt great to be out on the Slate. We walked up to the 'Senengeti' area, with the thought of doing a few more routes, but the bank holiday crowds made us change our minds and just enjoy the walk through the quarries.

Never Never Land, Llanberis Slate Quarry

On the way home, we stopped of for a quick ascent of of 'local peak' - Moel y Ci - the top half of which is completely covered with different types of purple heathers. There was a buzz of bees as we walked up among the fresh smelling colours. A real stunner in the evening light.

Heather and Gorse

Moel y Ci - one of the best panoramas in North Wales - and only 5 minutes from The Cottage. 

Moel Y Ci in full bloom


Friday 22 August 2014

Cottage Life - Post Expedition Re-adjustment

Re-adjusting to life at the Cottage. Getting to grips with not living in a tent. Hot showers on demand; an abundance of clean clothes; a fridge filled with food; a real bed; walking barefoot on carpets; mid morning Nespressos.  Ah, the luxury of it all. After six weeks of exploration around Europe, we've amassed a staggering amount of photos. Given the showery weather today, I've started to put together a photo journal of the summer. It's been great flicking back through the adventures and surprising how much I'd already started to forget about. 

Already though, sights are being set on the next adventure. Took a late afternoon trip over to the beach, where, as usual, the weather was clearing... and so did our heads...

Walking into the blue skies

A long walk along Rhosnigr beach, with the sun on our faces and the wind in our hair, was the perfect antidote to a whole morning spent indoors. Called in to catch up with friends afterwards and ended up staying for a great evening of laughter, stories, olives and prosecco.

Beach Thearpy

Tuesday 19 August 2014

Evening Slates

Back in Wales and after a day of washing, sorting, cleaning, unpacking, post opening, coffee drinking, we nipped out to enjoy the last of the light and a quick climb up at the Skyline level of the Llanberis Slate Quarries.


We climbed 'Plastic Solider' (6a) which had had some bolts replaced a few days ago, after some were damaged earlier in the summer. It's got a few more in-situ soldiers now, but is still good!


The evening light in the quarries was almost eerie, and we topped out just in time for a spectacular sun set over Anglesey.



Monday 18 August 2014

The Long Road Home

Service Station cook up - Central France


Having stayed the night near Chamonix, we spent the next day travelling the toll road to Calais. We broke the journey up with plenty of food stops. Most of which we really rather civilized, although I did get caught out in a particularly heavy downpour, just as I was about to serve up!

Is that rain in the air?..
Getting caught out mid cook! - At a service station near Calais

 It's amazing what you see drive past on the road....


Load it up!

Once back in Blighty, we spent the next night in Dockenfield, before continuing north to Hitchin, to celebrate with cousin Walter - at a surprise Hawaiian Party! A great night indeed, with some good tunes, great dancing and lots of friendly faces, who'd come from all over Europe!

Sir Walter J Wallis - kicking off the entertainments, Hawaiian Stylee

It was well past 2am, by the time we reached Fort Martin, but we were up early(ish) to prepare the house for the onset of 30 or so other Martin relatives, who were coming for lunch! Lovely day of eating, drinking, chatting and a good bit of Frizbee too!

Apres lunch Frizbee at Fort Martin

Then came the final stretch - homeward bound at last after of 6 weeks away! Got in at dusk, lit the fire and collapsed.... Welcome back to The Cottage.

Home Sweet Home....






Thursday 14 August 2014

Service Station Salutations - Observations from the road...


You can tell a lot about a nation,
By the state of their motorway service station.
The Swiss, of course have got it sussed,
And a stop off there, is quite a must,
Their cleanliness is just first class,
And outside there's a lake and grass,
Where one can rest and lounge around,
And puzzle how a single pound,
Can buy so little - nothing is cheap;
So be prepared to dig quite deep,
Into your pocket, if you need a feed;
Swiss Francs are lost here fast indeed!

The French have tried hard to keep up,
With the standards set next door;
But still insist, you relieve yourself,
By squatting on the floor.
Outside you'll find a picnic bench and shade to keep you cool,
And usually an area, for a game or two of boule.
Inside, at the cashier desk, don't be surprised to see,
In amongst the sweets and gum, a nudie DVD.

The coffee makes it worth a stop on an Italian motorway,
But otherwise I'd pass right by and carry on your way.
Firstly, parking is quite a test,
And the layout inside's not the best;
With just one door for outs and ins,
And overflowing rubbish bins.
Italian's, they don't seem to mind, the chaos that ensues,
As men and women pile on in, to use the grubby loos.

As borders cross, you'll see a change,
Witness a sight, or something strange.
Each country contains, it's own traits,
And usually high diesel rates.

So pull in, pee, and grab a brew,
There's much to see, but less to do,
These Euro drivers and the staff,
Can give us cause, to stare and laugh.

So pay the toll and take your place,
In the multi-national drivers race;
And play the game of guess the nation,
Next time you're at a service station!


Wednesday 13 August 2014

Chamonix

Through the Mt Blanc tunnel this morning (after being relieved of €42.00 for the  privilege), and onto a fine day of strolling the streets of Chamonix.

Sunshine, heavy showers and more outdoor gear shops than you could ever visit. A great day to be a tourist. Plenty of shopping and cafe time, then met up with a friend for dinner. A fine end to the trip - heading homeward bound tomorrow..

Tuesday 12 August 2014

Orco Slab Climbing

After yesterday's crack climbing, we decided to switch to some big slabs today, to get little sample of all the delights that the Valle Orco has to offer. With the weather being good lower down the valley, we set off in the sun for a calf pumping, hand sweating, slab padding day of excellent rock climbing...

Best hand hold on the slab!

There was little in the way of hand holds, and much smearing of the feet, but at there were at least a decent amount of bolts to aim for, which made the whole thing much less harrowing than it might have been otherwise.

Getting to the base of the slab was tricky enough!

It was about a 20 minute scramble up through the woods to the left of 'La Pryamid', and a cheeky small slab traverse to get to the base of the main routes. It felt like a bit of a mission at the time, but we were rewarded with a quiet, sunny crag for the day.

Slab Padding

There were some high cirrus clouds that were building all morning and by the time we left, only strip of blue sky remained above us. 

A warning sign in the clouds

We shipped out of the valley before the storm arrived after an great feed down by the river. We drove north through the Aosta Valley and have stopped for the night in Courmayeur, just south of Mt Blanc. It's a great little village, that has fantastic views of the Mt Blanc range. Except when, like tonight, it's shrouded in mist!!

Monday 11 August 2014

La Pyramid, Orco - Granite Crack Climbing Induction

Lots of sad faces in camp this morning as the forecast blue skies failed to turn up. After a misty and slightly damp breakfast we decided to head down the valley in seach of warmer temperatures (camp is at 1500m), and were duly rewarded for our efforts. We only drove a few kilometres, but the drop in altitude was notable by the dry ground and pleasant temperature when we got out of the car. 



We'd gone to climb a rock known as La Pyrimid. There were some more ammeanable angled climbs there that suited our style, and were described as 'a good introduction to the valley'.



We climbed a route called 'Fessura per P.A', which after some brutish hand jamming to get off the ground, gave us several nice pitches of 4b/4a in the sunshine. We did feel a little smug, as you could see from the top, that higher up the valley (where the campsite was) was filled with dark clouds all day! The belays were bolted by the climbing required trad protection, as the few bolts that existed had been hammered flat or removed. To be fair, there were tonnes of cracks and gear placements, so the bolts weren't really needed. From the top we abseiled 60m down to a stance and climbed another route called 'Legolas' (5a,4a,4a).


After completing a few routes, we abseiled back to the ground and rather than return to a cold, misty campsite, we got the blanket out and cooked up dinner by the boulders in the meadow. Blue skies and nice sunset colours on the hills (except for the direction of camp!) Very tranquil!..

Sunday 10 August 2014

Col Leynir (3084m) - Grand Paradiso National Park

Up into the mountains today. Took a bus ride from the campsite up to the Refuge Sovoie a 2532m. The road is closed to normal tourist traffic on Sundays to make way for a 'sustainable travel bus service' that has been put on. It was a pretty cool ride up some ridiculous switch-backs, but I'm not sure how 'eco/sustainable' it was with just Clare & I on board for the first part!

Up at the refuge, we had initially intended to go up to the Col Rossett (3023m), but after following a more interesting looking path early on, found ourselves heading for the Col Leynir. Not sure if it was because the road was closed, or because it was a Sunday, or because the weather was a bit cloudy, but there was no-one about as we hiked up the scenic valley, enjoying the views of the surrounding peaks and lakes. 

The cloud eventually descended as we stopped for a little lunch near the col, but it stayed dry all day. 
During the day we saw loads of Marmots. They were all sizes - right from little tinies to great big loafing ones. They weren't shy either and would stand up on their hind legs and watch you as you walked by!
We were glad to have the bus take on the narrow zig-zags of the drive down. It took just under an hour, so we felt like we'd got pretty good value from the €4.00 return ticket price! Back in the village, we sampled some traditional local chocolate cake and cappuccino to round off a fine day in the hills...