The Alpine Finale

Making the most of our last climbing day in the alps! Another early start to beat the heat up at the Col de la Colombiere. 

Did another quality 6 pitch climb, with long (40-50m) pitches.

The climbing was superb and all with good belays to allow an easy way back down once we'd got as far as we wanted to go. The fifth pitch was incredible - really sustained and exposed, but always a good hand hold just in the nick of time! When I reached the chains, I had an overwhelming feeling of needing to rest. Alpine fatigue was setting in and it was time to go down... 

By the time we were abseiling it was around 11am and pretty much too hot to climb anyway.

We did 5 big abseils back to the bags and a quick 10 minute hike back to the car. On the way back down the hill to Marnaz, we stopped off at Le Repisoir for a drink in the little café as a final treat and because the view is so good from the terrace. The comfy seats were lovely too!

After showers, lunch and an afternoon nap, we set about packing up the chalet and generally cleaning up. We've been here about a month and have certainly 'settled in'! Later in the afternoon, we went up to Mont Saxonex, our nearest village, for a final look at the local views.

Then home in time for dinner and the last of the packing. Tomorrow we drive north. What a summer it's been...

Col de la Colombiere Climb:

- Les Gaguistes, 5c*** (4b, 5c, 4c, 5a, 5b) - (Last 5b pitch is fantastic!)

Bad Beta - Climbing at Dalle de la Rosiere

There were warning signs before we'd even left home. The descriptions on how to get to the crag varied between guidebooks and the topos of the climbs didn't seem to quite match. However, having used a map and by reading the various descriptions, we settled on approaching from the north. The last kilometre to the designated parking zone involved driving up a very rough rocky track, high in the mountains and not particularly suitable for our little car. We pressed on nervously, sweating slightly, but arriving unscathed at the designated area. From there, the guidebook promised a 40 minute walk to the crag.

To be fair, it was a picturesque hike, but more in the region of an hour and ten minutes to get near the climbing.

We actually descended from the parking area, through meadows, then forest to a small path that took us up to the cliff base.

From there the views were far reaching.

Opting to trust the newer of our guidebooks we followed the clear photo diagram upwards. It was supposed to be well within our grade, but looked surprisingly steep for the 'gentle slabs' that I though we were going to be getting involved with. Pressing on regardless, this photo was from our eventual highpoint, where I was reluctant to try and climb through a large overhang on onto a featureless wall with minimal bolts. It just didn't feel right, so we descended to the floor.

Once down, we found another team, who had located the correct route! They said the guide was wrong! It was disappointing not to have climbed the intended route, but I was glad at least that I'd not tried to press on upwards on the unknown, but clearly much harder, climb!

After a rest in the shade, we climbed the first pitch of our intended route, but by now it was too hot to get too far and we returned to the ground after 60m via a long abseil. All that was left to do was hike back uphill to the car! Next time, I'd recommend hiking up to the climb, from the lower parking areas so at least at the end of the day you only have to walk down hill! Still, at least the views were nice!

Dalle de la Rosiere Climbs:

- L'orpheline, 6a***

- Le Capricorne 5a* (Pitch one)

Morning Swims & Evening Climbs

While I was trekking around on the glaciers last week, Clare went to the lake for a morning swim before work and was keen to show me how good it was! It really was worth getting up and out of bed and heading straight there before everyone else turned up! 

There was barely a ripple and the water was warm enough to swim across and up and down and generally float about looking up at the incredible views!

It really was a magic way to start a day...

Especially as we'd taken a good après swim breakfast!

Not really wanting to leave the delightful lake shore, we walked a lap of the lake before heading off to Sallanches, to find the bakery that our friends Matt & Em had recommended.

It didn't disappoint! So good... and as a complete bonus, there was a huge outdoor store just down the road for a bit of browsing and shopping.

We got back to the chalet mid afternoon and rested for a bit before heading up to the Col de la Colombiere for an evening climb.

We climbed a long route that was low in the grade so we could move quickly, as we were keeping an eye on the sunset time and not wanting to be caught out in the dark. The easy pitches did at least finish with some exciting steeper climbing up amazing runnels. 

Six pitches of excellent climbing and a big abseil back to a ledge where we could walk off, with the whole mountain to ourselves.

Before we made the abseil, the sun burst though and the mountains in the distance lit up incredibly. A magic moment.

Got back to the base of the route with just enough time to walk down without headtorches.

Back at the car at dark... A full day!

Col de la Colombiere Climb:

- Fanfoue des Pnottas, 5b****  (3b, 3a, 3a, 3b, 5b, 4c)

Work and Play

Made the most of working from home in the Alps, by starting the day with a stroll down to the local bakers!

Both Clare and I had plenty of 'online' work to sort out, so spent the majority of the day, plugging away at the less exciting jobs that we both needed to get done, but by later afternoon, went out to our local crag for some exercise.

All the routes that we climbed had fixed carabiners at the top, which allowed rapid descents and for us to climb several routes each in the small amount of time we had.

Later, while Clare went back to work in the office, I took a more comfortable work zone to proof read some writing!

Climbs at Malsaire:

- Poupee de Rocher, 5a**

- Malabar, 4c***

- Glace, 4c***

- Jour de Nuit, 5c**

- La reine de la pompe, 6a**

- La Gloire de Mon Pere, 5c**

Saved by a Pain-au-Chocolate

Todays climbing objective on the Petit Bargy ended up finishing without even getting the ropes un-coiled. Sometimes that's just how it goes, but better to return safe and sound.

Using the first Wednesday chairlift, we were up at Lac Benit, before the sun was on the cliffs or any other climbers were about. It's not a particularly well frequented place anyway and we weren't expecting to see many other people on our chosen route, so made our way up the loose screes to the base of the pillar unhurried.

On the way to the chairlift, we'd stopped at the village bakery in Mont Saxonnex to pick up a baguette and as a last minute decision, asked for a couple of pain au chocolates too, figuring they'd be a welcome addition to our belay snacks. We were hoping that the the route we'd chosen would be relatively safe as it ascends a pillar of rock so should be out of the firing line of any potential rock fall. However, the first pitch starts to the side of a gully. 

Ordinarily, we'd have set up at the base of the first pitch and sorted gear etc, but having crossed the loose screes, we went to a patch of ground just around the corner to tuck straight into the fresh pastries. As we were about to start munching, the crashing sound of rockfall suddenly burst into the quiet of the morning. We tucked into our sheltered position and the moved back further as a volley of rocks came clattering past in the gully, bouncing worryingly close and all across where we'd been due to start gearing up. 

Things died down again, but there was no desire to stand up in the firing zone to try and get on the route! A safe retreat was made instead, down to the shores of the lake, where were found a good spot to listen to a book instead!

There were other options for climbing, but by now it was a bit late and we were a bit spooked by another close encounter with high speed rocks, so were happy to enjoy the more relaxing ambience of the lake side for the day before taking a slightly extended hike back up to the chairlift.

A Bridge Too Far - Climbing at La Saleve

Went on a day trip to the crags of 'Le Coin' at La Saleve, which are pretty much on the Swiss border. We'd found a cool looking ridge to climb, so set off early to catch it before the sun did. 

The first pitch seemed impossibly steep and smooth, but we found a sneaky way around to the right and later found that most people just walk around to the start of the second pitch and avoid our struggles!

Having regained composure, we blasted off upwards again while admiring the views from our shady position.

Near the top of the third pitch, we got a birds-eye view of Geneva and it's lake.

But then came the show-stopper.... A very wide step/leap, over a 30m deep chasm, lay between us and the continuation of the arete. The photo makes it hard to see, but it looked outrageous! Even after much searching and puzzling, a unanimous decision was made to beat a retreat while we still could!

This photo, which we took later in the day, from below, shows a Mexican climber that we met, going for broke and committing to the irreversible move. We met him again afterwards and he said it was actually okay, but very very scary, making the step across! He said it didn't dare look down!

Meanwhile, we were very happy to make a few abseils back the way we'd come, after enjoying the views of Geneva, where the huge fountain in the lake was clearly visable.

We moved around the the front face after getting back on the ground and went to climb a few pitches of a classic corner climb, but accidently started up the route next to it (which is also good), and when we got back to the bags, the Mexican climber came over to climb the corner, so we decided to call it a day.

By now all the rock was in the sun, so it was time to go anyway.

We stopped in a few towns on the drive home and checked out a few town square and tourist views, but were feeling too tired to stay out much longer. A few wisps of cloud were forming, but it stayed warm and bright.

Back at the pad, we got in and rested in the shade of the patio, feeling exhausted, excited but still glad that we'd not 'gone for it' with the leap of faith!

Later on, I sorted though some of the crystals from yesterdays hunt. Some are pretty good.

Finished the day with a beauty sunset too...

La Saleve Climbs:

- Arete desc Toiles, 5c*** (up to 'the crossing'!)

- Face Ouest, 5c** (P1)