Tuesday 8 June 2021

The Direct Route, Milestone Buttress

Back at The Cottage and the weather is fine. Having unpacked the van and dealt with a small mountain of admin, there was time for a late afternoon climb up in the Ogwen Valley. 


Conditions couldn't have been better. The rock was bone dry, the temperature had risen in the twenties, allowing us the rare local treat of climbing in T-Shirts and a warm breeze was keeping any threat of midges away. Milestone Buttress also provided a bit of social connection too, as it was a popular choice for a few of our friends who were instructing some students and abseiling down as were were starting up.


Both pitches of the Direct Route are on excellent rock, well protected, very well travelled and with spacious ledges to regroup on. As the guidebook notes - 'if unsure of where to go, follow the polished rock'. Thanks to our friend Dave, who had just descended with his clients, a very convenient abseil point was set up from below the final chimney pitch, so we made use of it to get easily back down in 50m and with the bonus of avoiding the chimney pitch!


Milestone Buttress Climb:
- The Direct Route, V.Diff***


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