Monday 7 June 2021

On Tour in the South West

There's not really been time or connection to be adding daily blog updates this week, while we've been touring the south west in our little van, so here is a short summary of a fantastic ten days on the road! After our emergency pit stop at the excellent Portishead Quarry, we moved down to Chudleigh Rocks, which according to our guidebook, we last visited in 2006. The place was a bit overgrown and to our surprise, we had the entire cliff to ourselves. During the trip, we only climbed the best 2 or 3 star routes all week. The limestone on the classic 'Inkerman Groove' was so polished it was like glass and I was worried to begin with that it might be unclimbable these days! No complains from the weather though!


Next day, we continued a little further south to visit Wally and Jen and enjoyed a bit of the Coastal path while catching up.


The sea looked so inviting, that we decided to go for a dip off the breakwater.



Leaving Looe Island on the horizon, we swan back to the beach where Octoaunt Jenny, met us.


Coffee and Ice Creams were the perfect desert, having arrived at her door at midday, armed with hot pasties from the local butchers.


The Dewerstone was the next port of call, on the edge of Dartmoor. Again, an old favourite from years ago, which felt like visiting an old friend.


Some of the blocks at the top of the climb, we were surprised to find, had been bolted onto the cliff!


And the 'abseil anchors', were rotting away. We didn't fancy lowering off what was left of this old tree, so had to forge on upwards to reach the top of the cliff!


Plenty of time in the evenings, was dedicated to curling up in the van with a brew on. The temperatures remained warm enough that camping was a very pleasant (although incredibly expensive!).


The prolonged good weather, tempted us back to the Dewerstone for a second day, where again, we had the place to ourselves.


We started off with an exciting 3 pitch climb, which had us buzzing (and a little sweaty and pumped) once we reached the top.


Lunch was taken by the river under a shady oak.


Then more climbs followed...


After tiring of hanging on, we had a brew on the moors with the wild ponies.


Then snuggled in again...


I climbed a tree to watch a fabulous sunset from the top of a beech tree. Not climbed a tree in ages. Rather enjoyed myself...


By chance, we heard about a lake to swim in on the moor, and later discovered in our guide that there was also some climbing there.


A drop in temps, put us off the swim, but Clare climbed the arete above the lake (just left of her in the photo below). It was steep and very exposed as it was straight down into the water and slightly overhanging. We were both relieved and excited to get to the top! (just as it started to drizzle too!).


Leaving the misty moors behind, we dropped down to the coast at Sidmouth, where Des and Suzi were waiting for us.


Rather than just catch up in a cafe, they brought some paddleboards with them, so we went out in the bay to the breakwater, doubled up on the boards and had a great chat while bobbing around! A brilliant way to visit!


Having made it back without falling in, while Des went and collected some drinks, Clare convinced me to take a swim, which was amazingly warm compared to the Welsh coastal waters.


A short hike back to the van, with some scenic view made for a fantastic afternoon catch up before continuing on to Pat and Bob's. 


To miss the traffic on the way home, and make the most of being south, we hung out again in Somerset. Nice walks in the area revealed an unbelievable tree house!


Then, after a cuppa with Beth on the way past Gloucester, we eventually arrived back at The Cottage and collapsed on to the grass for a rest. What a trip!...


South West Classic Climbs:

Portishead Quarry: 
- Brink of Solarity, HVS, (5a)**

Chudleigh Rocks:
- Inkerman Grooves, VS (4c)***
- Never on a Sunday, HS (4b)***

The Dewerstone:
- Central Grooves, HS (4b)***
- Leviathan, VS (4c)*** (into Central Grooves as abseil tree has rotted away!)
- Climbers Club Ordinary, VS (4c)*** - Wildly steep!
- Fly on the Wall, HS (4b)**
- Needle Arete, V.Diff**

Foggintor Quarry:
- Swan Lake, HS (4b)**


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