I've known about the climbing at Craig Dinas, literally for years, but until now have never actually been there to climb. It's not in any of the 'newer' guidebooks and there are no printed topos of the climbs, so I guess it always gets overlooked (written descriptions are in the Climbers Club guide to Merionydd). Anyway, after hearing about it this week, Clare and I finally went to have a look for ourselves, feeling slightly amazed that a crag of this size had gone un-noticed to us so close to home!
We started off on what is deemed to be the 'classic' of the crag. The rock was good and the views superb. It was (as expected) a little over grown (according to the database on UKC, it's only every been climbed less than fifty times!). The first pitch ends on top of a detached pinnacle.
I then carried on up an intimidating, but really good pitch after 'stepping boldly onto the wall' across the void as per the guidebook descriptions.
It's a good route and well worth seeking out. Given that there is loads of parking, only a ten to fifteen minute walk in and really close to Betws-y-coed, it's surprising that it does not get more traffic? Good rope work is required to navigate a few zig-zags, before finishing up a nice slab.
We decided to walk off. There is a path, but its a bit over grown with gorse!!
It was preferable to the abseil as the anchors were getting reclaimed by nature!
This is the view from the top. Moel Siabod clearly seen just left of centre.
Spring is on it's way and I suspect in summer the crag may become inaccessible once plants start to bloom!
Amazingly, we met a second climbing team, who had found a photo diagram on facebook. They kindly donated it to us and we did a 'new' route that was not in our guide, only on the new topo. It was described as a good route, but it's quite likely that we did the second ascent as it was completely over grown and mossy and a little loose in places! I'd stick to the 'classics' next time on the cleaner rock. The sheltered crag base was a sun trap, so after our last route, alone on the hillside, lay out sunbathing before moving on!
On the drive home, we couldn't help noticing Llyn Mywbr looking enticing with the lack of breeze.
We happened to have the paddleboards in the van, so keen for a bit more practice, we pumped them up and took a short trip around the lake.
Not quite the conditions of Christmas Day 2020, but not far off it! While the weather is so nice, we are making the most of the garden catch ups with friends. It almost feels normal, popping in for a brew, until it starts to get cold and you have to go home!
Climbs at Craig Dinas:
- Guls Nest Crack, S (4a) - This is also the first pitch of 'The Nurgler'
- The Nurgler, VS (4b)**
- Catcher in the Sky S (4a)
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