A superb day of climbing work today, making an ascent of the classic climb "Flying Buttress" on Dinas Cromlech. A three star route that is not only one of the most famous in Wales, but the whole of the UK at the grade. It's one of Ken Wilson's 'Classic Rock' Climbs of the UK and a sought after ascent by many climbers, let alone 6th formers). Wonderful to be back up high above the Llanberis Pass, squeezed in between a showery night last night and with rain starting again, shortly after getting back to Llanberis!
The climb also gave my instructor brain a good working out too, as I was also observing another climbing instructor guiding the route with me. Lots of double checking and up-ing and downing for me! I climbed the first two pitches and fixed a rope, while the students got ready. I could then use this to abseil down and then ascent again, checking everything was okay and trying pick out any teaching points along the way. After a few pitches, with the team assembled in 'The Col' (a grassy bay/niche), we re-sorted the ropes to switch from climbing in parallel to series (don't worry about the technical terms - they're more for me to remember for next time!)
I then led the next two pitches in one (missing out a very exposed/spectacular belay, that hangs over the height of the crag), in favour of the big sloping ledge above that could accommodate us all (see photo below from John). We then each belayed the next climber up to the stance (use lots of long slings on this pitch to reduce rope drag).
The final pitch is the crux! Only short, but with a tricky move that is polished and smooth! We sent Bex up first in order to guarantee success! I followed, with the students close behind. Top tip for this pitch is for the leader to leave a sling hanging down to allow a bit of aid if the second climber can't make the move. Despite knowing this, in all the excitement of the finale, I omitted to leave the sling, giving Bex an extra bit of problem solving practice - an assisted hoist over the tricky move for the next climber! (sorry Bex!).
We were met at the top by John, who had climbed the Spiral Stairs/Better things combo. His students also gave the experience 15 out of 10 and we all descended buzzing from the climb/exposure/drama of the final pitch. The walk/scramble down also needs a short roped lower (there is a good spike to use above this). The students made it back just in time for dinner and all that was left was to untangle the huge heap of gear when I got home! (usually sorted at the crag, but time was tight!).
A super day - more of these please!
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