On the Orme

Had a quick trip around the Marine Drive on the Great Orme in search of some adventures today...

There are still seals pupping in the little cove that I wanted to go to, but we found a different kind of adventure in the form of a hole in the ground! From two new looking bolt anchors, we lowered into a blow hole, which if we'd had more time (and a wetsuit), could provide quite a journey with a swimming exit.

Instead, we enjoyed the views as we travelled around the peninsular.

Later on, in a total change of scene, we had a very loud, but great fun jam session...

Back on Tryfan

In a last minute change of plans I decided to not take my group of students on the planned valley hike and instead go up the south ridge of Tryfan. They were keen for a challenge and the conditions in the mountains were as good as the could be for some scrambling.

The nippy northerly wind that has been with us all month remained, but the skies were clear and while we kept moving, we also kept warm. There was a dusting of fresh snow on the higher summits and the air was crystal clear.

This was my first time to the summit this year! And also the first time scrambling with a group for a long while too. It felt good to be out and about and to have been able to make the most of the chance to get 'up high'. 

Menai Straits Morning

Big Spring tides meant that there were waves to be surfed on the incoming tide in the Menai Straits. It's the first morning in ages not to be a full blue sky - typical as we had to make a 6am start in the gloom to catch the tide.

Anyway, even though it was a bit of a grey start to the day (even a little drizzle! - first of the month perhaps?), it was great to be out in kayaks. The waters of the straits are tricky to navigate, with eddies, whirlpools and waves all appearing and disappearing as the flow increases.

John and Aled know the waters well, so directed us towards the best chutes and surf waves, which were glassy smooth to surf and constantly changing in height. I only went upside down once as the boils in the water tipped me off balance, but I was glad to see that my arms automatically went into auto piolet and I rolled back up the right way without any drama! 

We were off the water by 9am and went for pastries in Menai Bridge before heading home with a van full of wet kit to deal with.

Surf Climb Combo

While we couldn't make it to catch the big waves of the weekend, there were still a few fun ones left over first thing on Monday morning for us to enjoy. As well as being a stunning morning, we had the entire beach to ourselves - a kayaker (Aled), a surfer (me) and a bodyboarder (Clare).

It was my first surf of the year and despite the warm sunshine, the water was painfully cold at first! Waves or no waves, it was a delight to be out on the ocean again.

We had warm water for a rinse off waiting for us at the van. It was so nice, we decided to stay put for a bit and brewed up a coffee and relaxed on the beach for a while.

Feeling warmed and rested, we moved on northwards to Holyhead Mountain, which was a total suntrap, with some mega belay views.

We climbed three of the classic climbs, which all felt great and had an easy walk back down to the bags. If you look closely, up under the overhangs.

The holds were great, as was the protection (apart from this rusty peg, which we by-passed).

It was good to get on some of the steeper routes and feel okay climbing them. Even managed to get back home in time to give the lawn it's first mow of the year before dark! 

Holyhead Mountain Climbs:

- Tension, HS (4b)**

- Bruvers, HVS (5a)**

- Black and Tan VS (4c)**

Paddleboarding

After a day out paddle boarding with some students, we decided that an evening in The Cottage gardens was required. It's been a fabulous run of settled weather, but am in danger of exhausting ourselves! Instead of racing out on another evening climb, we kicked back in the evening sunlight. Nice times... 

Tennis Shoe, HS (4a)*** Idwal Slabs

Maxed out on the available daylight hours today with another evening ascent of Idwal Slabs. I was very keen to do the East Wall Girdle as the conditions are so dry at the moment, but after a day of bushcraft skills in the forest, then home for a bite to eat, time was not on our side. The route Tennis Shoe, is a grade less difficult which meant that if we went fast enough, we'd be up and down before dark.

There was a beautiful sunset, which we enjoyed from the ledges while paying out the ropes. There is still a strong cold wind, but we were pretty much sheltered on our route. There was no time for snacking when we reached the top of the climbing. Instead we carried on to the descent, arriving back at our bags as the moon began to rise.

We walked out in the dusky moonlight arriving back at the van just as we decided that it was now 'officially dark'. No headtorches required though. It had been a bit rushed and a shorter route, in hindsight, would probably have been a better choice, but it was nice to do a classic route in just two hours.

Idwal Slabs:

- Tennis Shoe, HS (4a)***

Climbing at Bochlwd Buttress, Ogwen

More evening climbing in the Ogwen Valley and I think our seventh day of consecutive rock climbing around Snowdonia. This time we opted for the brilliant little buttress below Cwm Bochlwyd. We've done all the routes here, but so long ago, they all felt new again! Bathed in the warmth of the evening sun, we enjoyed two routes before bad light stopped play. The climbs are about 40m high, so give plenty of time to get absorbed in the process of moving and placing protection. At the top of Marble Slab, we fixed an abseil point so we could quickly zip back down to the start of the next route, which was even better. 

This evening, we had eaten some food before heading up the valley, so as we walked away in the dusk, for once, we weren't starving!

Earlier in the day I'd taken a group of students up to the Obelisk above Llandudno Junction. The views there are great, especially on  a day like today! 

Plenty of wood anenomies in the forest on the way there as well as wild garlic, violets and cow slips in abundance. Even saw my first Swallow arrive back here after it's winter in South Africa.

Bochlwyd Buttress Climbs:

- Marble Wall, HS (4a)*

- Five Pitch Route HS (4a)** 

Mountains and Coast Views

A day of two halves. The first was spent leading a group of students in a remote area of southern Snowdonia, which I'd not been to in a few years.

We didn't see a soul all day, but got some excellent views including this one, where Snowdon can be seen in the centre of the three peaks.

We had gone there to climb at Craig y Tonnau, which has a unique 'rippled' look to it. It was a sheltered sun trap and although a small mission was had finding it thanks to an outdated guidebook description, we had a great time there. (For future reference, stay on the forest track, past a small rock cutting on the left then take the next left hand path about 100m later - avoid the fire break and pylon route!)

Having returned the students, I met Clare by the coast where the sun was making the rock glow orange.

We did a couple of routes at the far end of the top level - they had some nice climbing on, but both had a bit of suspect rock that we had to be careful around.

Still, it was nice to be in T-Shirts at 20:00 while looking out to sea.

We got back home after the sun had set, absolutely ravenous and pretty exhausted. This was the view from the garage forecourt as I stopped to re-fuel on the way to The Cottage.

Craig y Tonnau Climb:

- Robbins, Nest, Severe (4a)

Penmaenbach Quarry Climbs:

- Pendulum Corner, 5

- Agent Orange, 5

Idwal Evening

Rock Climbing conditions in North Wales at the moment are almost as good as they get. There's still a chilly breeze about, but having not had a drop of rain in over two week, the rock is dry and the friction great.

With the evenings getting longer, it means that there is time for some evening adventures as well. This time last year, the mountains were 'closed', so this was our first trip up Idwal Slabs in about a year - it felt good to be back and to have the entire Cwm to ourselves!

We moved together up the Ordinary Route and walked back down as the moon rose above the Glyders.

Idwal Slabs:

- Ordinary Route, Diff**

T-Shirts at Tremadog

The cold breeze changed our plans from climbing on the exposed cliffs of Anglesey, to the sheltered sun trap of Tremadog, near Portmadog. 

It turned out to be an excellent choice and I climbed in a t-shirt all day. It was relatively overcast, but fifteen degrees and still was much better that the coasts eight degrees and windy! I was so hot at the top of the Micah Finish, that I had to take of my helmet and pack before I could sort out the ropes. When Clare got up to me, we enjoyed a leisurely lunch with a view.

The blue bells at the top of the crag are all coming into flower now too.

As well as some great climbing, it was also nice to bump into friends who were either guiding, training or there just for fun. Social occasions still need to be savoured and appreciated! The climbing was cut short as I had to attend a meeting online. I managed to do this from the van, while Clare expolred Beddgelert and even brought me over an ice cream! There are some bonuses of online meetings I guess. 

It was getting late by the time I was finished and we had planned on paddle boarding on Llyn Dinas. When we arrived, the lake was actually quite exposed to the cold breeze and we were exhausted, so we brewed a fresh cup of George Boyd in the back of the van and returned to The Cottage for pizzas instead. 

Climbs at Tremadog:

- Christmas Curry and the Micah Finish, HS (4b)***

- Sheer-Khan Right Hand, S (4a)

- Yogi, VS (4b)** (top pitch)

- Tro, HS (4a)*

Climbing at Craig Dinas

I've known about the climbing at Craig Dinas, literally for years, but until now have never actually been there to climb. It's not in any of the 'newer' guidebooks and there are no printed topos of the climbs, so I guess it always gets overlooked (written descriptions are in the Climbers Club guide to Merionydd). Anyway, after hearing about it this week, Clare and I finally went to have a look for ourselves, feeling slightly amazed that a crag of this size had gone un-noticed to us so close to home!

We started off on what is deemed to be the 'classic' of the crag. The rock was good and the views superb. It was (as expected) a little over grown (according to the database on UKC, it's only every been climbed less than fifty times!). The first pitch ends on top of a detached pinnacle.

I then carried on up an intimidating, but really good pitch after 'stepping boldly onto the wall' across the void as per the guidebook descriptions.

It's a good route and well worth seeking out. Given that there is loads of parking, only a ten to fifteen minute walk in and really close to Betws-y-coed, it's surprising that it does not get more traffic? Good rope work is required to navigate a few zig-zags, before finishing up a nice slab.

We decided to walk off. There is a path, but its a bit over grown with gorse!!

It was preferable to the abseil as the anchors were getting reclaimed by nature!

This is the view from the top. Moel Siabod clearly seen just left of centre.

Spring is on it's way and I suspect in summer the crag may become inaccessible once plants start to bloom!

Amazingly, we met a second climbing team, who had found a photo diagram on facebook. They kindly donated it to us and we did a 'new' route that was not in our guide, only on the new topo. It was described as a good route, but it's quite likely that we did the second ascent as it was completely over grown and mossy and a little loose in places! I'd stick to the 'classics' next time on the cleaner rock. The sheltered crag base was a sun trap, so after our last route, alone on the hillside, lay out sunbathing before moving on!

On the drive home, we couldn't help noticing Llyn Mywbr looking enticing with the lack of breeze.

We happened to have the paddleboards in the van, so keen for a bit more practice, we pumped them up and took a short trip around the lake.

Not quite the conditions of Christmas Day 2020, but not far off it! While the weather is so nice, we are making the most of the garden catch ups with friends. It almost feels normal, popping in for a brew, until it starts to get cold and you have to go home!

Climbs at Craig Dinas:

- Guls Nest Crack, S (4a) - This is also the first pitch of 'The Nurgler'

- The Nurgler, VS (4b)**

- Catcher in the Sky S (4a)