Sport Climbing at Gandia, Costa Blanca

 A fabulous couple of days of work and play around Gandia!

The morning beach stroll was a bit breezier that usual, but still warm enough to dip our toes in.

The overcast skies were not a bother as we both had plenty to be getting on with 'in the office'! 

Then later in the day on Sunday, we drove the short distance out to the crag.

As we climbed, the skies began to clear up and we were bathed in sunshine by the evening.

Today (after the obligatory beach walk), we returned to the crag and this time, felt good enough to try one of the steeper classics. I got pretty pumped early on, but made it to the top (through the small roof above me in the photo below) with only one short rest at the roof. 

Being a Monday, it was not as busy at the crag, so between climbs we could kick back and enjoy the views.

The weather was idyllic for climbing and the routes all excellent. We even found some new routes that were not in our guidebook, which meant that they were not as polished.

The steep wall I climbed, goes up the orange streak in the middle of this section of cliff.

From the crag, we left with enough time to pick up some ice creams and get to the beach before sunset!

After leaving the beach at sunset, we were up at the 11th floor in time to watch a superb light show as the sun dipped behind the mountains. Amazing!

Climbs at Gandia Crag:

27/02/22

- Novatillos, 5+***

- Tamborinaes, 6a+**

- Chitiri Chitiri, 4+**

28/02/22

- Nina de Porcelana, 6a+**

- El Sol, 6b+***

- Coral Bajilla, 5+*

- Cuartet de Bany, 5**

- New Route (not in our guide, Right of Nocatillos), 5+***

Sport Climbing at L'Ocaive, Costa Blanca

Went on a little explore today to check out a crag that looked like it might have some routes that fit our style - steep pocketed limestone slabs. There are also a load of really hard overhanging tufas, but it was the slabs that had caught our attention and we weren't disappointed. As with a lot of the cliffs here, there is a short walk-in, through an orchard, then some uphill walking though a wooded area that was just coming into bloom.

Things were still a bit overcast when we arrived at the base of the cliff, but it was still warm.

The weather brightened during the day and despite it being billed as a 'shady crag', we were in full sunshine by mid-afternoon.

As advertised, the climbs were on great rock that was really sharp to hold onto. Sometimes, where there was a lack of good holds, you could almost press your hand onto the rock and it would grip something!

All the routes we did were superb.

One other pair of climbers arrived later in the day, but otherwise, we had the place to ourselves again!

This is the steeper section of cliffs. It would be fun to try some of these climbs, but I'd need someone to get our kit back afterwards as it is so steep!

Once our fingers were feeling too sore, we sat in the sun for a bit just looking at the views out to sea then descended into the forest.

A short drive later and all we had to do was ascend back to the 11th floor. Mysteriously, the lift said we had arrived, but outside of the lift things seemed different. For a moment I thought we might be in the wrong block of flats!? Luckily, we eventually spotted that a number 12 was written on the wall, so we tried to descend a level. This put us at floor 10! Had floor number 11 vanished?! In the end, we took the stairs and were relieved to find our apartment was still there and that we were not going mad!

L'Ocaive - Sector Maniaticos Climbs:

- Ella la Arana, 5*

- Amparito no me toques, 6a+**

- Plac Mania, 6a+***

- No t'as Veras, 6a+***

- 96 Octanos, 6a+***

Climbing at Gandia

 

The blue skies of the evening had been replaced by clouds and a couple of heavy showers. No problem for us as an 'office day' had already been scheduled. By late afternoon though, things had cleared up enough to entice us out to the nearby cliffs above Gandia.

There was not a breath of wind and the air was so quiet and still that the place felt a little bit spooky. We climbed a few great routes that had been re-bolted. 

Not all the routes shared the same, confidence inspiring protection! We back off the classic corner route as the bolts seemed either missing or old.

There are plenty of great climbs here though, so hopefully, we'll get a return visit next week?...

Gandia - Sector Critic Climbs:

- Beniarres no em diu res, 5*

- Piccolissima, 6a**

Views from Valencia

Another day working out of the 'Spanish Office'. But this time, instead of going for a walk on the beach after hours, we took the local train north to check out Valencia... 

For a very reasonable five euros, you can take an hour train ride from Gandia to Valencia. It seemed rude not to.

Outside the main station is an enormous bull fighting 'Colosseum'. 

With a bit of prior research, Clare had worked out a rough walking route to see some of the sights. Here are some of the bits we enjoyed...

There are several amazing bridges, of varying ages, but no sign of the river they are crossing!

In some of the squares, there are also some fantastic old trees.

The cathedral has a suitably impressive entrance.

And much of the old walls are adorned with 'street art'

Or tiles...

After a delicious traditional paella (Valencia's speciality), we wandered back to the main station.

Where there was time to grab a bag of hot Bunuelos - (think donuts and sugar - another local favorite), before catching the late train home. A fine day of explorations...