Piz dal Pal Tower

View from the summit of Piz dal Pal Tower

We’ve been climbing up in the Albigna Valley today. Such a great place to be – high up in the mountains, surrounded by glaciers and golden granite spires – its amazing that you can get there so easily from the valley.

You have been warned!

Today’s objective was an eye-catching little spire called the Piz dal Pal Tower. We climbed the SW Arete, which gave 6 fantastic pitches that ended with a delicate few moves to gain the slender summit. And all no harder that 5a! There was a bit of cloud bubbling around the higher peaks, but generally, it was a beautiful day to be up high in the mountains, with great climbing at a relaxed pace and very few people about. And to top it off, some kind soul had added a nice new abseil station on the summit, which now means you can put down on the far side of the peak in one 60m descent.  Bliss…

Clare leading off into the sunshine

The Alpine Spire of Piz dal Pal Tower

Almost there - the final moves!

An Ode to the Escort Van...

Bernina Pass Rainbow

Over the Albula Pass

Let's go climbing in Switzerland - Yeah, that sounds like a plan!
I think we should drive there - but not in the van.
I fear that high passes or a steep mountain road,
Could put strain on the engine, and make it explode!

And even if we make it, with out over-heating,
We'll be sweating so much, we'll be stuck to the seating.
Cos' with no air-conditioning, the van can get baking,
With the rev-counter high and when constantly braking!

Lunch break on the Susten Pass

With the big pass of Susten that needs to be crossed,
I bet that the brake pads are sure to be lost!
If we survive all the switch-backs, hair-pins and such,
We'll still have to deal with the smell of burnt clutch!

So the Skoda was chosen, as the car for the job,
With it's flashy interior and locking key fob.
And of course, air-conditioning for luxury drive,
Fresh, just like as daisy, is how we'll arrive!

So we got to La Punt, on a bright summers day,
While the locals were working at bailing up hay.
Such a beautiful valley, the wide Engadine,
In it's full summer glory; a sight to be seen!

Thank's to Tim's good directions, he'd sent by email,
We located the village without wrong turn or fail.
But a loss of one's bearings, and sense of direction,
Got us slightly confused at one crucial section.

Having parked underground and then found the first floor,
By some kind of magic, we emerged in next door!
Confusing it was, and amused we sure were,
As we re-checked our map in a whispered confer.

So we tip-toed back out, moving quiet as a mouse,
And eventually surfaced to find the right house!
And such a fine house; we're most grateful to use,
With it's top floor position and superior views!

Dry rock for the keen!

Is that rain in the air?!
Caught out in a downpour!

Against all the odds, we managed to get ourselves between the clouds, feel a bit of sunshine and even get up a couple of nice pitches of rock climbing! After scanning a few weather forecasts, we nipped into Valdret da Morteratsch. There were black clouds looming everywhere, but somehow, not in our chosen valley! To air on the side of caution, we chose Morteratsch as the climbing is only a short distance from the car park. With the weather looking like it was closing in, we got straight on the first route we came across. We did get caught out slightly as a shower blew through, but it dried off within 20 minutes and we were soon able to get back on some freshly dried rock!

After some lunch, we strolled up to the snout of the Morteratsch Glacier, which has receded at a surprising pace over the last 100 years. There were markers, showing the location of the snout and even the most recent (2012) was at least 200m away from the ice. If you want to see it, get there quick - it'll be gone soon at this rate!

Clare, going quick between showers

Ahh, sunny rock delight!

Plaun da Lej - Making the most of the sunny spells

Clare on the ridge route, Eldelweiss

Climbing in the Engadine today - at Plaun da Lej - just outside St Moritz. It's been a warm day overall, but few showers swept through the valley in the early afternoon threatening to spoil the fun. A nice overhanging bit of rock at the base of the crag, provided a really good picnic spot and view point, where we could shelter until the rain passed and the blue skies returned.

The rock was quick to dry and it was a splendid place to soak up the beautiful views down the valley, with snow capped peaks above the lakes. Some nice routes to climb as well. Made it to the top of the last route at double speed as a wall of dark clouds made it's way up the valley towards us. Nothing like a nearby lightning flash to crystallize the concentration and make you climb faster! It was spotting with rain as I rapidly threaded the belay, but we it back to the car before the heavens opened!

On top!

Sitting out the showers

Get down! There a storm-a-coming

Drama on the Fiamma...

Went easy on the legs today, and took a cable car up to the Albigna Dam (possibly the best value eighteen Swiss Francs you could ever spend!). From there, it's a short stroll over an area of granite cliffs, called Spazzacaldeira. We climbed the NE Ridge, which was billed as a three star classic and a good introduction to the area. There was a team already on the ridge, but luckily we managed to climb past them early on.

At the top of the Spazzacalderia, there is a famous spire of rock called the Fiamma (The Flame). We opted to have some lunch on the rocky terraces below it and let a Norwegian couple climb it first. It's graded 5(c), so we thought they'd be quick, as they'd come up quickly after us up the ridge. However, when we scrambled up to investigate, they were back on the ground, having only got half way up. They swapped leads, but still no summit. Was it really only 5c? It certainly looked pretty tricky! A period of head scratching ensued.

Eventually, they admitted defeat, and asked if I fancied trying it? I duly went up to 'have a look' and could see some potential moves, but the exposure made it all look rather alarming. After a couple of false starts, I went for it, helped along by some encouraging noises from the team below. At about one bolt from the top, just as the slender edge of the summit was almost within reach, a Swiss pair arrived at the bottom, and on surveying the scene, told us (with some amusement) that the 'normal/easy' way up, was around the other side!! Opps!

Clare & Ole on thier way to summit glory after 'the battle of the Fiamma'

Nevermind, the four of us all took our turns to climb to the top, via a combination of routes, and thankfully all back down to the cable car in time for the last lift... Moral of the story - always check your guidebook before setting off!!

Clare on the NE Ridge of Spazzacaldeira

Clare making the final precarious moves

Keeping Dry

A wet day across much of the Alps today, but there's still some dry rock to be found for those keen enough to sniff it out!

Bouldering in La Punt

Keeping out of the rain at the base of La Punt Crag

Climbing in the Bernina Pass, Switzerland

Having left our mountain base of North Wales at the start of the month, we've been working our way south through the Swiss Alps. We've swum in Lake Luzern, climbed in the Sustenpass, driven over lots of mountain passes and settled here, for a bit, in the Engadine. The weather has been unsettled to say the least, but between the thunderstorms the blue sky is quick to return and we've done some excellent climbs...

Clare hanging on a belay yesterday at Lagalp in the Bernina Pass

Welcome to the Mountain Lifestyle Blog!

Welcome to the Mountain Lifestyle Blog! It's a mountain based blog for documentation, inspiration and motivation. A collection of muses, adventures and thoughts that follow the life and times of Ian Martin and my mountain based lifestyle... Enjoy...