Tuesday, 29 September 2020

Cwfwry Arete, Cader Idris

We had planned on camping at the base of Cader last night, but I'm glad we went for the early start from The Cottage instead. The sunrise and morning mist on the drive there was spectacular. 


After eating breakfast in the car park, we got out boots on and set off just after 9am.


There was not a breath of wind, as forecast and the air was crisp and clear, with views right out to sea.


The reflection on the lake was like a mirror without the breeze.


We opted to climb the full ridge length, having initially wanted to climb a steeper start, but this involved staying on the shady side which was still wet from yesterday afternoon's rain. The sun was already on the crest of the ridge, so already dry and much more appealing.


Below us we could see most of Snowdonia and not another soul.


Where the ridge steepens and the climbing starts to require a rope, we stripped off and sat in the warm morning sun as our sweat dried off. It was beginning to feel like we could just stay there and sunbath for the day, when some clouds covered the sun and the temperature took an instant nose dive - it was time to get moving.


After climbing the first pitches in one long lead, I was sitting on top of 'the table' (a big pinnicle on the ridge), when the mists rolled in. As the sun was behind me and still low in the sky, I saw a double rainbow brokenspectre, with my shadow in its centre. It was quite a moment.


The mist blew through almost as quickly as it had appeared and we continued upwards.


After the tricky descent from 'the table', there were a few fantastic pitches of climbing. They looked very intimidating and improbable for the grade, but the handholds kept appearing!



The top section of the ridge, was more 'knife edge' and easier to traverse. By now were were getting a bit tired and stopped for more tuna sandwiches before topping out.


It was a 'picnic with a view'....


At the top of the ridge, with the rope packed away, we decided to not bother going up to the summit of Cader and instead head back to the valley.


Where the comfort of the van awaited! While the sun streamed into the back of the van, we got changed and brewed up a 'George Boyd'.


Camp bliss....


Once the sun began to leave our little camp spot, we drove down the estuary to Barmouth and had some chips on the beach. Then, as it was still light and warm enough, had dinner outside a little cafe on the waterfront, looking up to the mountains that we'd just been climbing in as they disappeared into the building cloud.



We drove home via the west coast road and even stopped in traffic to admire Harlech Castle!


Mega Day.....

Cader Idris:
- Cwfwry Arete, Diff***

Monday, 28 September 2020

Idwal Slabs - Finding new ground

Dave and I have climbed Idwal Slabs loads of time, so it was an unexpected bonus to climb a route that neither of us had done this morning. It was a great route, but I could see why it had never appealed. The start involves steep climbing (on excellent rock), but without any protection, until you're rather high up and committed to carrying on upwards. Dave kept his cool and pretty much walked up it unphased. I was happy to have the rope above me when I followed a few minutes later. 


From midway on the climb 'Tennis Shoe', I made a diagonal traverse rightwards to join the easier 'Ordinary Route' and we moved together up to the top as fast as we could, before unroping to scramble down and back to the valley. It felt really nice to be seeing the old view again and to be bumping into friends who I've not seen since the start of the year who were walking in with their clients, ready for a days climbing. 


I was back at The Cottage before midday - just in time for an outside birthday lunch in the sun with Josie, who had cycled over from Anglesey. Luckily for us, the morning rains held off until later in the afternoon.

Idwal Slabs:
- (Tennis Shoe) The Direct Start, HVS, 5 or E1, 5a** (depending what guidebook you look in!)

Sunday, 27 September 2020

Penmaenbach Ridge

Risk Assessment paperwork and equipment inspections made up the bulk of the day today, despite the weather being glorious. 


Clare cycled out to meet me at the base of Penmaenbach Ridge as soon as we were both free and we enjoyed a speedy scramble up the miniature alpine ridge.


The evening light was lovely and we were both delighting in being able to make the most of the evenings while they are still light enough.


The views as always were splendid and we had enough time to have a drink and a sit down at the top - a nice way to chat up on each others day.



We were down at the van before dark, feeling suitably pleased. With Clare's bike in the back, we drove home together.


Penmaenbach Ridge - Gd I**


Saturday, 26 September 2020

Pulpit Route, Milestone Buttress. V.Diff**

 Following a day spent mostly at a computer screen, I was iching to get out climbing this evening. Time was against me, but I just managed to get up and down Milestone Buttress before dark. It was looking a bit gloomy, but I got a sudden light show 'glow' over Y Garn at dusk. 


It feels like an eternity since I was moving around in the mountains and it felt good to be there and hanging onto some rock - even when it started spotting with rain! It's cold out now and Scotland has had snow today! I'm happy to wait a little longer for winter though...


Milestone Buttress:
- Pulpit Route, V.Diff** (solo) - 50 minutes door to door from The Cottage!

Wednesday, 23 September 2020

An Ode to Aunty Jenny

Eighty Aunty...


Demonstrator, Ban The Bomb!

Swim the bay with nothing on. 


Rebel leader Aunty Jen;

Armed with paintbrushes and pen.


Blizzards, Brexit, Lockdown too,

It’s coming thick and fast at you.


Politics, environment, 

or anything you’d like to vent.


Come right over, pour some tea 

Or go al fresco by the sea;


Walk to bench with fine sea view;

Placed to discuss a point of view 


She’s quite an aunt, who loves to chat

Shame I’m allergic to her cat


Shop the second hands and thrift;

Ensures a Father Christmas gift 


The YHA she liked to go,

Red socks pulled up, school kids in tow


Gwynant valley, spinning yarns, 

Sleeping out in camping barns.


The wolves of Snowdon sound so real

Enough to make the youngsters squeal


How old? In years? A few at most, 

She’s further down Jurassic Coast


Pre-Cambrian? BC? AD?

All weathered by the sun and sea. 


She’s rock and roll and old as Gneiss;

Remembers Dartmoor’s glacier ice


Can’t date with carbon; or phone App

But gets a mention on Tithe Map


She made an Ark as I recall

Which rests in Bea and Alan’s hall


Sporting vintage; cultural wicket

Gets involved with village cricket 


One story which is fondly told, 

West Indies vs Rest of world.


Track and trace, google, wiki,

British Library search is tricky


No longer Three score years and Jen.

She’s tallied up another ten.


Through 80 years she’s seen and done,

And all of it with cheeky fun.


The artist touch, the potters flare

Smell of pasties in the air


Fresh cream teas served up in Looe;

The only thing as good as you


Happy 80th Birthday! 


Big love and hugs from ian, Clare and the Democratic Republic of Haiti...



Tuesday, 22 September 2020

A Getaway at The Fort

Was lovely to enjoy the peace and quiet of a different morning view. The weather has been cloudless for our visit to Loddington and starting the day sitting at the bottom of the garden as the day got going was particularly tranquil.



Just me and Mr Squirrel...


It's been a real holiday feel, enjoying the blue skies, chatting and taking a stroll or two.


And wandering about the gardens.


And got hustled by the card miester before we left...



Sunday, 20 September 2020

Sunset Specials

It's been an incredible week of stunning sunsets that we'd enjoyed at a variety of locations around North Wales. Up on the side of Carnedd y Filiast, we shared this one with the locals on Thursday...


On the walk down from the Machlyn Reservoir, the sun went completely red (and seemed much bigger than in this photo.


We hardly ever stop at the beach near Conwy so, managed to make time for a nice walk along the empty sand before it got dark, on the way home on Friday.


Saturday, I was cooking up a camp dinner at the Sychnant Pass with some students while we were watching this beauty.


Fine dining at sunset.


Another firey red finish over Anglesey...


And a camp in the van later that night. It was a very comfy night and a deep sleep, but I was woken up early, with a start, by the local gamekeeper who wanted to get past our camp in his landrover!


Sunday evening, by chance, we stopped off at Llandulas Beach. When traffic on the A55 drew to a standstill, rather than sit in the traffic, we pulled off and went for a walk along the deserted shoreline, while the sun set and the roads cleared.


We even found a great stone skimming pond!


Once the sun disappeared, we continued on our journey. Well worth the stop!



Thursday, 17 September 2020

Bochlwyd Eliminate - HVS, (5a)**

Strange weather today. I left The Cottage in glorious blue sky sunshine and drove straight into a dense bank of cold fog at the coast. While I was in a whiteout all day, the mountains have been warm and sunny! I got straight back into the sun as soon as I could as I was meeting up with an old student of mine in Ogwen who was visiting. It was great to hook up and hear what he had been up to and even better to have him leading up a climb, with me belaying. Clare came out and met us too so it was a nice little social reunion.
Having taught Mark the basics of climbing many years ago now, it was rather satisfying to share a climb as equal and hear of his adventures and work at the National Mountain Centre in Scotland. He'd not climbed on Bochlwyd Buttress before, so we thought it would be a good introduction to a classic climb of the area. Coming from Scotland, he thought it funny when I apologized for the long twenty-minute uphill hike to the crag, proclaiming it practically roadside compared to climbing in Scotland! A wonderful evening and even made it back to the cars without a headtorch. Just. Evenings are drawing in!...




Bochlwyd Buttress:
- Bochlwyd Eliminate, HVS (5a)**


Tuesday, 15 September 2020

Day Trip to the Med

Incredible weather conditions across North Wales today, led to quite a lot of indecision as what to do! Rock climbing, sea kayaking, hiking?.... Flat calm conditions, wonderfully warm and not a breath of wind eventually led us to hiking out to the coast with the snorkeling kit. Once we'd finally decided, it felt like we'd made the best decision. Just the walk to the water was stunning.


When we got to the edge of the water, it really felt like we'd been transported to the Mediterranean rather than the coast of Anglesey. Incredible.


Conditions were about as good as they could be for snorkelling and we spent about an hour and a half swimming across the bay and back. Saw quite a few fish, but no crabs this time.


Just before we left, I noticed that the boat sailing away belongs to a friend of ours. When we texted to say hi and to send a few photos, she said she thought she had seen us and had taken a photo of us snorkeling!