There were warning signs before we'd even left home. The descriptions on how to get to the crag varied between guidebooks and the topos of the climbs didn't seem to quite match. However, having used a map and by reading the various descriptions, we settled on approaching from the north. The last kilometre to the designated parking zone involved driving up a very rough rocky track, high in the mountains and not particularly suitable for our little car. We pressed on nervously, sweating slightly, but arriving unscathed at the designated area. From there, the guidebook promised a 40 minute walk to the crag.
To be fair, it was a picturesque hike, but more in the region of an hour and ten minutes to get near the climbing.
We actually descended from the parking area, through meadows, then forest to a small path that took us up to the cliff base.
From there the views were far reaching.
Opting to trust the newer of our guidebooks we followed the clear photo diagram upwards. It was supposed to be well within our grade, but looked surprisingly steep for the 'gentle slabs' that I though we were going to be getting involved with. Pressing on regardless, this photo was from our eventual highpoint, where I was reluctant to try and climb through a large overhang on onto a featureless wall with minimal bolts. It just didn't feel right, so we descended to the floor.
Once down, we found another team, who had located the correct route! They said the guide was wrong! It was disappointing not to have climbed the intended route, but I was glad at least that I'd not tried to press on upwards on the unknown, but clearly much harder, climb!
After a rest in the shade, we climbed the first pitch of our intended route, but by now it was too hot to get too far and we returned to the ground after 60m via a long abseil. All that was left to do was hike back uphill to the car! Next time, I'd recommend hiking up to the climb, from the lower parking areas so at least at the end of the day you only have to walk down hill! Still, at least the views were nice!
Dalle de la Rosiere Climbs:
- L'orpheline, 6a***
- Le Capricorne 5a* (Pitch one)
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