The gales and rain lasted all night and well into the morning. We decided to try our luck on the coast, but the south westerly gales meant that most crags on Angelsey would be unpleasant places to be as well as wet. Having raked through all the options, we found ourselves mulling over the final pages in the 'esoterica' zone of the guidebook. The East Coast crags of Benllech would be sheltered, but would they be any good?! As they were our only option, we set off in a light drizzle to try our luck. Ordinarily, I'd have probably stayed fireside, but as our friend had travelled here from France, it seemed rude not to go and at least have a look. Stay optimistic eh?!
As we parked up the car, we watched in amazement as the clouds above us dispersed and sure enough, the crag was just sheltered! The only remaining challenge was getting to the crag!
I suspect that after the climbs on the cliffs were first recorded, no one really came to repeat the routes - and for good reason! Each of the sectors were fiercely guarded by steep forested terrain, festooned with brambles and stinging nettles.
And that was after journeying along the 'lost world' coast which included descending a knotted rope into a pool of green slim! Getting to and from the routes was certainly the crux of the expedition!
Having arrived at the base of the routes with only minor scratches and stings, we did a couple of routes which we both thought pretty tough for the grade, and with some of the bolts worryingly spaced.
We returned to the car unscathed and just as the rain returned!
After a coffee and cake respite back at The Cottage, it started to look as though the wind might be dropping and the rain dying out. Having travelled from France, all the way to Wales, we decided that some classic Welsh slate climbing would pick the day up, and in a sudden burst of excitement and bravery, Stu decided that we should go and climb what the guide discribes as 'the Slate's most famous route'. A short while later he set off for glory up the thinnest of crack lines above Vivian Quarry.
It really is a route of the finest quality climbing - although it's a long way up to the first proper protection! And such a bonus given the grim weather. The evening turned into a stunner! Who'd have though our optimism would have paid off so well!
- Cracking Sport (6a+)
- Pocket Full of Pockets (6a+)
Vivian Slate Quarry:
- Comes the Dervish - E3 (5c)
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