The Toubkal Traverse

Magic mountain moments today, as we stood on the highest point in North Africa and watched the sunrise. Of course, to get the magic, you’ve got to put in a bit of graft, but the novelty of getting up and having breakfast at 02:20 in the morning masked the fact that we had to be up so early. I was actually glad to get up as the hut dormitory was hot, sweaty and cramped. I did get some sleep, but was glad that we were first up and out.

We were walking away just after 3am. Everyone had acclimatised well and with a steady pace and regular drink stops, we soon made the col. From here the excitement grew as we nearer the summit. We were still moving by torchlight, but there was a glow on the horizon. At the summit, we all shook hands and stood marvelling at the light show over in the east. Behind us, the full moon was still showing and morning shadows were crisply picking out ridge lines and gullies. On student fell asleep sitting down and toppled over when I offered him some food. 

Instead of returning via the normal route back to the refuge, we continued over the mountain, and descended another way, via an ascent of another peak that bore the remains of an aeroplane that had crashed in the sixties. Engines and metal work littered the screes slopes and some remained perched precariously on the summit. 

Steep scree sliding lost us altitude fast, but at the cost of a few grazes and one of my walking poles, which snapped under the pressure. However, Hamed was down by the river waiting for us with another huge spread of food and mint tea. We all ate like wild men and the promptly fell asleep in the sun. 

Two hours after arriving at the river lunch area, we pulled our boots back on and joined the main path back towards Imlil. By the time we reached the Gite in Around, we’d descended 2222m and had been on the go for 11hrs and 23minutes. A decent mountain day by anyone’s standards, but particularly impressive for a group of young students. 

We stopped just after a ‘police checkpoint’ and got some orange juice to perk us up for the final stretch. We arrived back looking dusty and dishevelled, but extremely pleased with ourselves. After demolishing a few packs of biscuits and some drinks we dispersed for some time in the showers and shade..

Once we were all clean, (although not in particularly clean clothes), we had a real treat when Ibrahim, our local guide, invited into his house for tea. It was quite a sparse place, but he produced flat do-nut things, pop corn and incredibly sweet tea, which he poured from a great height, without spilling a drop. A fantastic finish.