Tongariro Alpine Crossing

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is one of New Zealand's 'Great Walks' and possibly one of it's busiest. It's not exactly 'alpine' as we know it, but is certainly dramatic. The route hikes up through some impressive volcanic terrain, between two big volcanoes (one of which is still smoking and starred in the Lord of the Rings film as Mt Doom). The standard crossing is about 20km, but if that's not far enough it is possible to scale either of the two main peaks. We'd been advised by a friend to avoid the larger peak (Mt Ngauruhoe) so instead, broke away from the crowds and climbed to the top of Mt Tongariro instead.

The walk had a blizzare start. There is a board walk along the first part and as most folk get dropped off by coaches at the start point, suddenly there is a huge mob of people all trying to hike along the one small trail. It was a kind of conveyer belt of people - a precession of sorts! You couldn't stop or really over take either and we were a bit worried to begin with that the whole day would involve being wedged between other sweaty hikers! Luckily, the peloton of walkers thinned out and the path widened to allow us to get a bit of space and the views were enough to keep our mind from the other hundreds of walkers. 

Up in the main crater rim we had plenty of space and once we'd headed off up to climb the peak we were pretty much alone which was ace. The colour of the rocks was incredible. So vivid and varied.

The main peak was a perfect 'text book' volcano with a conical shape and a little wisp of smoke coming from the red rock summit. Further along, we walked past the 'Red Crater' where there was an actual fissure that had opened up and fresh looking lava lay around it. 

From the windy high point, we descended towards the Emerald Lakes, which looked beautiful but actually stank of sulphuric rotten eggs! It was no place to linger as as well as the smells, jets of steam were hissing emitions from various vents as we went past.

There was one final climb past the Blue Lake. The view back from where we'd walked was superb; luna almost. In the centre of the crater plains was an old flow of lava that looked like it had just spewed out of the neighbouring volcano. From the blue lake (and it really was coloured blue!) it was a long long zig zagging path back to the car. Lake Taupo was laid out spectacularly below, but compared to the volcanic scenes from earlier, it seemed a little out of place. After a long, hot descent through some dense forest and a few more sections of boardwalk, we emerged at the top car park six minutes after the shuttle bus had left. Rather than wait another fifty four minutes for the next, we walked the extra kilometre back to the car where socks and shoes where joyfully exchanged for sandels! We'd done it! 1075m of ascent, 1475m of descent, all in seven hours and forty seven minutes.

We drove straight down to the town only to find the only coffee shop had just closed! Toffee Crumble ice creams saved the day though, followed by a refreshing swim/wash in Lake Taupo. We then struck really lucky, when the Tourist Office directed us to a nearby 'freedom' (free) campspot. We're camped up right next to the lake which is totally beautiful. There are black swans by the pontoon and the full moon has just risen. Not a cloud in the sky still.