Monday 25 October 2021

Sunny Sperlonga Climbing

Getting to the bigger cliffs of Parete del Chiromante, proved to be a bit of a struggle. Partly due to the heat, but mostly as the path we took was quite overgrown. The tough long grasses cut our feet and legs as we pushed past them, leaving us covered in paper cuts by the time we route the climb we wanted to try.


The climb was super intimidating as we were high up on the hillside now and the wind was whipping around the prow of the cliff. The bolts were reassuringly new and chunky, but frustratingly, I climbed up to the wrong lower-off after 30m, we meant that we couldn't comtinue on the long multi-pitch route that I'd hoped to climb. It was probably for the best as the wind was exhausting and we were both quite relieved to be back on the ground rather than swinging from a hanging belay high up above the sea!


We beat a retreat down to the lower crag, where the routes were shorter, but more importantly, completely sheltered from the wind. This was much more pleasant!


The climbs were of superb quality here - super sharp edges and pockets that required more balance than strength. Below, in the sea, we saw another big shoal of fish swim by. Amazing to watch from above.



We climbed until our fingers were too sore to hold on properly and our arms could no longer hold us.


Down at the beach, there was still time for a swim, and although it had clouded over, this just meant that the sea felt warmer!


Freshened up by a salt water wash, we drove over to the old town of Gaeta, which we'd not explored yet.


The lights around town were just coming on, so we explored the streets and stopped at a bar by the harbour.


The town seems to be made from old Roman relics and other re-cycled blocks!


We had hope to find a place to eat, but without success. The Olive Trees in the square had been trimmed like Bonsai Trees and lit up. 


We shared some take away Pizza by the water, watching the boats and harbour lights, before heading back to base.




Sperlonga Climbs:
Parete del Chiromante
- Spigio del Ferrante, 5c+
- Picchiami sulle bolle, 5c+

Avancorpo di Destra
- Avalon, 5a
- Lancillotto, 5a***
- Camelot Dorme, 5b****
- Ginevra, 5a**
- Re Artu, 5b**
- I Cavialieri della tavola, 6a***

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