Mountain Lifestyle: Carrauntoohil (1038m), via Howling Ridge (V.Diff)***

The unpronounceable summit of Carrauntoohil (1038m) in the wonderfully named mountain region of the Macgillycuddysreeks, at 1038m is the highest point in all of Ireland and was our objective for the day. Until this summer, it was range that I knew very little about, but was delighted to discover that not only was it the roof of Ireland, but it also has the countries best mountaineering ridge leading straight up to the summit - a 350m ridge climb/scramble called Howling Ridge.

There was the slightest of gaps in the recent showery weather that made things look like we might be able to make the ascent, but nothing was certain. We woke to the sound of rain, but with faith in the forecast, got up and packed. By the time we started walking in from the starting point (called Cronnin's Yard), the last bits of drizzle were just dying out, so we set off with fingers crossed.

There had been quite a bit of rain over night and the waterfalls and rivers were bright it white water. The summit remained in the clouds though until we were much closer to the ridge.

Even as we crossed over to the base of the summit pyramid, out ascent was still in doubt as the rock looked very wet, but the scenery was superb and the sky still held some promise of blue skies.

After some initially easy scrambling up a few steps, we had to cross the top of the waterfall in the photos above. I was a little concerned about this, given the rain and the surprising volume of water cascading down the hillside, but a narrow section with a few stepping stones helped us out with drama.

Then, it was up a path called 'the heavenly gates' past an emergency shelter bothy. We had a quick look inside an decided that it would have to be a real emergency to warrant spending a night with the mice inside it's musty confines! However, the view from the Heavenly Gate was superb. It had taken two hours to reach this point and the rock was now mostly dry and sheltered from the wind. The ridge ascent was on!

A long 50m pitch up the initial slabs and overlaps, got us going, then we took in a few coils to shorten the rope to made swinging the next few pitches a bit easier.

On the ridge, the rock was clean and grippy, but care needs to be taken on what you are pulling on. Off the ridge, to the side of us was green, wet, slimy and gross - it must be brilliant as a winter climbing venue once it's all frozen!

There isn't really much of a guidebook description as there as many variants, but the ridge is easy enough to follow. If you're feeling brave, then take on the obstacles directly, if not, there seemed to be ways around most of the tricky bits, but this does distract from the ridge climbing aspect as is more faff with rope drag etc. It didn't feel like it gets many ascents, but the rock is worn enough in places to know that it's been travelled before and guide the way.

After a short picnic (and another break to answer some work emails!), Clare got us up the crux of the route, known as The Tower, which involved nice climbing with positive holds, but in an exposed position. I took over in front, to had across the dramatic tilted slabs of 'The Bridge', where the route joins the top of Primrose Ridge. A few spots of rain threatened to turn things more sporting, but thankfully they blew past before they could really dampen the rock. Phew!

From then on, the climb weaves up through various rocky fingers and towers in an alpine style, before petering out onto the broad summit ridge.

With the rope packed away, we made the final 150m or so of ascent to the top of Ireland on foot.

As we reached the top, we came across this sign!

There was no doubt that we'd reached the summit! Having climbed an alpine ridge, there is an alpine cross on the top! (along with thirty or so hikers, wondering where on earth we'd just appeared from!)

It was brilliant to have been given such a clear summit day and wonderful to a a full panoramic view of completely new mountains! And of course, it's a lot less crowded here than than the top of Snowdon right now!

We opted to take the 'Devil's Ladder' down, which although it looked it for afar, is not a easy descent. It's a steep muddy gully, with lots of loose rock. It got us down quite quickly, but we had to concentrate the whole way. Most walking groups seemed to be walking past the col where it begins, and up onto the peak of Cnoc na Toinne (845m), which although means climbing back up another peak, has a much nicer zig-zag path down it, which then joins the main path down to the stepping stops and back to Cronnin's yard.