Storm Surf

Sensing that it might be my last chance to get a wave this year, I popped over to the beach in the gloom of the afternoon. I had been quite keen to go whitewater kayaking as the river were in spate, but I was lacking the necessary team for the task. Out at the coast, the weather was just as wild as the mountains; rain lashed down and gales rocked the van as I got changed.

The winds were generating a good sized swell, so I had to pick my beach break wisely; choosing a sheltered area. After catching a couple of good-sized lumps, the only three other surfers got out and I was left alone bobbing abound in the rough seas on my own. The surf wasn't great but I was loving being out in the ocean by myself. Rain hammered down so hard that it almost went dark. Heavy droplets of rain bounced off the surface of the water all around. I was doing more 'paddling around the bay, lying on my surfboard' than actually 'surfing', but I felt intensely happy, interacting solo, with the wild conditions. Maintaining my position kept me focused and warm; not too close to the rocks to feel unsafe, but close enough to catch the bigger rides. Just as the waves began to die off and my feet to get cold, a glimmer of light appeared way out on the horizon. The storm was passing.

The rain abated and inland, as I paddled for my last few waves, I looked up to see a vertical shaft of vibrant rainbow standing out against the dark clouds, as bright as a fresh highlighter pen. The waves thundered in, temporarily blocking out the light from the sinking sun. As they passed, I looked over my shoulder at the rays of light bursting out of the clouds on the far horizon. The colours and experience were mesmerizing and energizing. I paddled in circles, between the waves to try and take in the natural light show. When I eventually got out, I still felt warm, but was surprised to find that the left side of my face was completely numb. I changed inside the van as quickly as I could, then drove down to the next bay to check the waves there. The surf wasn't much to shout about, but just as I pulled in, a red ball of sun hit the horizon in a breathtaking moment. It quickly vanished into the sea and I was left to drive home with the heaters on full and my mind buzzing.