Climbing the perfect straight up ‘Klahanie Crack’ has been a real memory of our previous climbing trip to Squamish nine years ago, so we were both keen to make a repeat ascent while we are here. Overnight, the rain had been quite heavy, so we headed over somewhat optimistically as the roads began to dry.
It was a short, damp walk up to the base of the slabs through some redwood forests, that were coated in thick green moss.
The base of the slabs were still wet, but looked better higher up, so we warmed up on a route which actually was quite wet in the back of the crack still, so quite a bit harder than I’d hoped for!
The slabs were bone dry though, so Clare tip-toed her was up a very hard, smooth looking area.
Then we both got on ‘the crack’ which was brilliant. No hand or foot holds, just a hand sized crack to follow...
Both Daragh and Katrina were keen for us to try another classic climb called ‘Skywalker’ which was just around the corner. Clare took on the tricky first pitch before I took over higher up. Unfortunately, I only got a few meters higher than here, before having to hang from a cam and rest.
Above me was smooth rock and a slightly overhanging corner. It looked completely unclimbable. I was by now, semi-committed to getting up the climb however, so had to work out what to do! Using a new technique of finger jams, laybacks, smears and a fair amount of grunting, I finally reached he belay, elated, and with sweat dripping in my eyes!
I had time to compose myself as Clare followed up and led through the next pitch.
The name ‘Skywalker’ became apparent on the fourth pitch. A small plaque was bolted to the belay saying ‘may the force be with you’... Ahead lay a 20m horizontal traverse above a hundred metre drop. Grip! I tried not to look down as I made my way across what was actually easy climbing, but with big exposure. A pitch later and we were grinning on the final belay having made it to the top.
A short walk down and around the corner, re-united is with Daragh and Katrina, where we each shared stories of the recent dramas!
We walked away buzzing but tired. It had been a bit of an ordeal, but in a laughable kind of way. It had been climbing, but not as we knew it! We now knew why it was a classic climb...
On the way home, we stopped by the river for a ‘salmon burger’ at the Brackendale Eagle spotting area. The eagles are away at the moment, but Daragh and I are fairly sure we saw a bear on the river bank further down stream.
Shannon Falls:
- Dirty Dicky, 5.8
- Split Decision, 5.10a (tr)
- No Bolts, 5.11a
- Klahanie Crack, 5.7 (Squamish Top 100)
- Skywalker, 5.9 (Squamish Top 100) (5pitches)
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