Conditions, weather, people, time of day and free time all came into alignment today. After about fourteen years of waiting for the perfect combination, I finally got to climb the three star classic and longest route in Cwm Idwal - the East Wall Gridle. It was everything that I'd hoped it would be! Great rock, nice line, brilliant climbing, bone dry, no midges and as a smooth team.
It was actually a little bit cloudy as we set off, but considering that the route gets virtually no sunshine, it wasn't a problem. It was still very warm.
After climbing the brilliant, but very polished first pitch of 'Tennis Shoe', the rock got much rougher, and a little overgrownin places. There was crispy lichens and moss that had been dried to a crisp, but showed how wet it could be for most of the year. The rock was excellent though. Rough, goot holds and enough good gear placements. We were in our element. Unbelieveably, there was another team climbing on the East Wall (we rarely see anyone here!), so we had to belay slightly short on the second pitch rather than share a small stance. It wasn't aproblem though and Clare traversed on past to a small grassy ledge.
I say 'most' of the gear was good, but at times we had to make do!
Another rising traverse pitch took us up and over Ash Tree Wall, with some considerable exposure.
Idwal Slabs:
- East Wall Gridle, VS (4c)***
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