Tuesday 2 January 2018

Crimps and Balance.

I woke up early today for some reason. Perhaps it was so that I could sit on the balcony and enjoy the first colours hitting the sky. A magical start.



Climbing today was up at the big cliffs of Douvari above the town of Leonidio. Some of the routes were over 40m long, so we had to pick carefully to ensure that our rope was long enough to get back down to the ground safely! All the climbs were first class. We made our way across the three different sectors, picking out the best-looking lines as we went. I really wanted to test myself on some of the harder grade 7 routes, but these always had other climbers on them. There was so much great rock in the quieter areas though, that it didn't really matter.







Because the cliff bases are at a lower altitude and face due south, they catch all of the sunshine and heat up beautifully. I climbed with my shirt off and we had to get into the shade of some trees at lunchtime as it was too hot to sit in the direct sunlight! What a joy in early January! By the time the evening shadows arrived at the cliff base (at about 17:00), our fingers and toes were so sore that we were happy to pack up and walk back downhill into town. The harder grade climbs and sharp rock were beginning to take a toll. To celebrate the day's success, we stopped outside the climber's cafe and shared a cold beer before heading home.
I'm reading a book called 'The Push' by Tommy Caldwell and back at the pad, we collapsed, exhausted and happy by the fireside to read about him and Alex Honnald's amazing adventures in Patagonia. You know you've had a good days climbing when it's too painful to hold a hot cup of tea!

Douvári:
- Metallica, 5b
- Rammenstien in Leonidio, 6a+
Rockspot:
- Higgs Boson, 6c***
Orama:
- Nightfall (+extension), 6c***
- Sceptic Flesh, 6b+***

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