Thursday 26 March 2015

The Grack (5.6)***** - Climbing Glacier Point Apron

Another fine day of climbing giant rock faces in Yosemite! This time, we climbed a couple of routes on the huge cliff next to our campsite, called 'Glacier Point Apron'. We also upped the star ratings by doing a 'five star route' called The Grack, which according to the guidebook is "the best moderate grade crack climb in Yosemite". To give you an idea of scale, you can just spot Clare on the photo below.


It's amazing to be here so 'off season' yet with great weather. We had expected there to be a bit of snow about, but today was a full on summer scorcher!
The day started in the cold shade of camp, where the dawn chorus was replaced again by a choir of revving generators (what would John Muir say?!). This time, we were prepared a) for the noise of the generators and b) for the cold, by having a breakfast in bed under the warmth of the duvet. 
It was only a twenty minute walk from the tent to the base of our route and we couldn't believe that we had the entire rock face to ourselves! The climbing really was first class, with every pitch providing good sport; absorbing, but never terrifying. 



The pitches were long (almost too long for our ropes) and the second involved following a perfect crack. It was perfect for hand-jams, but fatiguing for our feet, which had to be twisted into the crack for purchase.




At the top, we spent a while sitting on a ledge, admiring the views and grinning a lot, feeling suitably pleased.




A few long abseils got us back to the ground, via a smooth sweep of granite, which was reflecting the heat of the sun with some force. But at least there was nothing for the ropes to get stuck on.



Once back on the ground, we decided to move along the base of the crag to another route called 'The Cow'. This route was actually a bit easier, but involved a very run out section, high up. Somehow, it turned out to be my turn to lead, so I set off carefully, placing a lot of trust in the friction of my feet. Although the angle was relatively low, there were no handholds, footholds, or protection for about 15 - 20m. All these factors helped to crystallise the concentration and dry the mouth somewhat as I made upward progress.


The line of shadow dropped down over us as I reached the safety of the belay ledge, and the temperatures returned to a less frazzling degree.




Another series of abseils down a blank section of rock had us conveniently back on the ground again before too long.

Back at camp, we devoured a few breakfast burritos (fried egg and avocado), the went to 'Curry Village' where there is a swimming pool and (but more importantly for us) showers. After enjoying a bit of a spruce up, we then went to Yosemite Lodge for an evening drink before dinner. Because of the high sided valley, the sun sets early, so it was good to be in the warmth of the lodge, even if the coffee was poor and the hit chocolate undrinkable!


Back at camp, we cooked dinner and jumped in the van. Partly for warmth and partly to be out of the smog that forms around camp when each pitch sparks up their own individual campfire. We're currently reading 'The strange case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde'.

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