Thursday, 22 January 2015

Surfing Lifestyle

Today I surfed one of my longest waves of the trip, then as I turned to paddle back out saw a dolphin jump clean out of the water a do a somersault! Quality!

There were a few rain drops still falling when then noise of the waves woke us this morning, but blue sky seemed to be on the way. We'd thought that the temperature had dropped last night, and we'd been quite right - there was snow on the mountains behind us! Looking out at the waves, we had tea in bed.



After breakfast, we drove the one minute commute back to Mangamunu Bay and spent the morning on long glassy waves.



To keep our engery levels up, we returned to the van for a hot noodle lunch and a bit of rest, while we watched some surfers on an area called 'the meatworks'.


We decided, as it was only a few metres walk, to try and get a wave at the meatworks. Well it was good to try, but we didn't last long. The waves were fast and really steep! Just as you're about to drop in on the wave, they kick up and you suddenly find yourself looking down a vertical cliff of water! 
After getting a short wave, I fell down another, and cracked my arm my board. Clare then got one, but got tumbled over and oct afterwards. Catching each other's eye across the waves, we decided to get out!

We stayed in our wetsuits - Clare I the back and me driving, and nipped down the road to the more gentle point break were a much better time was had!



To get to the waves, you have to cross the road and railway! Worth it though as there was no other surfers in so we had the whole place to ourselves (and the odd distant dolphin).

After another great surf, my arm were wasted and I had to get out while I could still paddle. The van came into its own later. Once we'd parked up at our secluded beachside spot for the night, we both took hot showers in our shower cubical, before enjoying a great dinner and some fine wines! Wilderness living eh!

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