In 1980, Steve Ashton published a guidebook on the scrambles of Snowdonia. I've climbed all the classic routes, often multiple times, but I noticed while flicking through it recently, that there are a few scrambles that I've yet to ascend. Some of them are 'included for completeness and should be avoided', others are a way off the beaten track and a few others are rarely climbed, loose, dangerous or both.
However, with only a twenty minute approach time, I decided that we ought to go and check out, the 'Right Hand Branch of Braich ty Du - having never climbed it before. The other reason for choosing this crag, was that is was in the full sunshine and sheltered from the easterly winds, so we enjoyed a very pleasant walk in from Ogwen Cottage, while clouds raced overhead. We were almost thwarted on the final stages of the approach, where thick gorse bushes prevented entry to the base of the cliffs. Clearly it had been some time since this broken section of butresses and cliff has been approached. Setting off though further vertical gorse fields, I began to wonder if it had even ever had a second ascent?
A short traverse, waist deep in the undergrowth, looked like it was heading somewhere promising and did at least end at a secure belay (albeit a hanging one over a big drop!).
Clare, having battled her way up to my high point, took over the lead on a section of clean, rough rock while I basked in the afternoon sunlight dangling from my dramatic hanging stance. Progress however, was soon halted though by the presence of an impenetrable section of gorse, which was covering our exit slab.
Clare (and then I), had been astonished to find a wooden post wedged between two boulders to provide a sturdy belay. We tied onto it while assessing our options. Ahead was impassable. To the side looked tricky and an abseil retreat looked to be a prickly and time-consuming affair.
Leaving Clare on the wooden wedge stance, I investigated around the other side of the cliff and was delighted to find a study spike of rock that we could perhaps descend from, down the vertical south face of the buttress?
I fixed some old rope that I was carrying (for exactly such emergencies!). The only question was, would our rope reach the ground below us? It was a vertical/overhanging abseil, meaning that once I'd set off, it would be hard to reascend. Thankfully as I tossed the ends down, they just hit the deck. Phew.
Leaving the security of our big ledge, it was rather intimidating to lean back and abseil down, but the buzz of adrenaline helped to crystallize the concentration levels and we were soon back on the ground and pulling down our ropes having escaped further drama.
So I think it's fair to say that this route has not been climbed in many years and probably won't be for many more. It was quite an impromptu adventure for a Sunday afternoon. Good value!
- Braich ty Du (Pen yr Ole Wen) - Right Hand Branch (Grade 3)* - Do not repeat!
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