Marsaxlokk & the Last Climb of the Year

Thought we'd finish off the year with a little swim down by 'St Peters Pool'. It's a beautiful little coastal cove near the fishing port of Marsaxlokk and on a calm day, it must be absolute bliss. However, waves were crashing in dramatically today, ensuring that getting in the water would have been a one-way trip!

From a geographical point of view, the coast is made of a very soft rock type and the sea has eroded all sorts of shelves and caves which made for a very interesting walk. As a tourist's point of interest, quite a few people were at the pool. It was interesting to note that we were the only ones to bother/be interested to walk along the coast any distance, where, in 100m, we felt like we had the whole island to ourselves.

 

You had to keep your eye on the ground though as there were also lots of these deep kettle holes that look like they are still in the process of being eroded.

 

Some hardy outcrops are resisting the forces of nature...but only just!

 

While we were nearby, we took a walk through the harbour or Marsaxlokk, which was busy with waterfront cafes and photographers who'd come to see the colourful fishing boats - of which there are plenty.

 

 

 

Once we thought the sun would have come around on the side of the Wied Babu Gorge, we set off to get a few climbs in - our last of the year. Rather than stay at the waterfront cafes (and miss the climbing), we stopped off at a Maltese Patizzie counter, where they sell little pasties and pastries. There was loads of choice, so we each got a few to try.

 

The sun had just made it onto the cliff when we arrived but didn't last there very long. It was too cold to be in the shade for any duration, so after completing a few three-stare star routes (more like one or two star in our opinion actually) we moved on after these:

Wied Babu Gorge:
- Rat Route, 5b***
- Overhanging Crack, 5b***
- Exposure, 6a+***

Then leaving the gorge behind, we packed our bags and got back up to the cliff tops just in time to watch the sun dip below the horizon for the last time in 2016. It was a stunner.

 

Back at the pad, we saw in the new year, watching the fireworks from the roof top terrace, with some bubbles in hand.

It was a lovely finish to what has been a fabulous year, with travels and adventures with great family and friends, spread far and wide across the globe. Plans are afoot, of course, to ensure that 2017 keeps up the pace, but to everyone who's been a part of the adventure that was 2016 with us, thanks very much!

Climbing at Wied Babu, Malta

Ahhhh... a full on cragging day today, with sun on skin, pumped forearms, sore, chalky fingers and happy hearts. Wied Babu is the main climbing area on Malta, with a whole range of amenable routes. Having arrived at the gorge, we discovered that all of the 'easier' routes on the slabs were in the shade and exposed to the wind in the mornings. We didn't come all this way to climb in the cold, so had to pump up the grade a bit to get into the sunshine on the other side, which is characterised by caves and tufas. Not exactly the warm up we expected, but while we were basking in the glorious sunshine, folk on the other side of the valley were shivering up routes in down jackets and hats, only some 50m away!



One of the first climbs we did was ridiculously steep, but well bolted and with huge 'juggy' holds. As long as you didn't hang around too long it was ok. Near the top, just as I was getting terminally pumped, I pulled over a ledge and into a cave, where I found I could have a sit down rest!

 

It felt great to be soaking up some vitamin D and to be climbing in T-Shirts (although a little surreal to see everyone on the other side of the valley looking so cold!)

After a nice picnic in the sunbathing cave, the sun had got around to the other side of the valley, so we followed the sunshine and did several more classic climbs in the warmth of the late afternoon sun. We left as soon as the sun did though, as the temperature dropped instantly - and anyway, our arms were too tired to carry on much longer!

 

Wied Babu:
West Side / Smoothies Cave:
- Toledan Acid Mango, 6a+
- Kurts Smoothie, 6b+**
- Call out the Cops, 5c***

Diamond Buttress:
- Shredded Tweet, 5b***
- Owl Nest Corner, 5a***
- Kleen Klutter, 6a+***
- Bentornati a Malta, 6a+***

The Blue Grotto

The Blue Grotto is a justifiably famous attraction in Malta, and happens to be very close to where were are staying as well as near the main climbing areas. Rather than pay for a bumpy boat ride to see it with the normal folk, we chose to get the spectacular ariel view, by climbing the cliff on the opposite side of the bay!

The waters looks so inviting and the sky was blue, but a bitterly cold wind was blowing down the narrow valley, so we were well wrapped up, even though we were in the sun for most of the climb.

 

The route was pretty straight forward and made for a nice journey up to a good view point. The guidebook made no reference to the descent, so we abseiled back down the line rather than risk hiking off into the unknown! I was actually pretty quick to do this.

 

A short hike back up the valley soon saw us back at the car and out of the wind.

We popped back to the flat for a quick brew and a warm up before taking a walk around our local village. There is a huge sink hole here, that opened up one night, way back in 1342. We went to check it out as it's really close - and really big! about 80m deep! This ariel photo shows it best - (our flat is marked with the red cross). It must have been a bit of a shock for the villagers to have woken up to find that half their village had vanished overnight! It looks like a meteorite strike!

 

The town is a quirky little place, with plenty of chapels and ornate buildings, as seems to the norm around these parts.

 

There is also a megalithic temple just down the road too, that has a shelter over it to protect it from further erosion. It seems that people have been on Malta for some time!...

Wied Babu Seaside:
- Lupo Alberto, 4+, 3+, 5+**

Motorcycle Slabs

Said our farewells to Gozo this morning and took the ferry back to Malta.

 

We timed things well again (by chance), and we soon on board and heading back past Comino.

 

We must have been super lucky on the way over here as there were huge ques on the Malta side, waiting to board the ferry as we arrived. From the ferry, we drove right across the island in about forty minutes to an area called Ghar Lapsi, in search of our climbing objective for the day. Having the climbing guidebook to an area really can take you to some amazing places. We were only a few hundred metres from a very busy little bay. The road ended at a huge car park where bustling cafes were serving food and drink to the masses. From back up the road a short distance, you'd never know that a nearby ravine gained access this beautiful and isolated zawn and sea arch.

 

It was an easy walk down from the car. With the couple of steep sections nicely protected with some metal staples. 

It felt like a lost world down there! The sea looked so inviting, but as we were in the shade and without towels, we didn't jump in. It was pretty temping though! The way out was up a big climb of almost 100m and we were keen to get on it. 

 

The cliffs were composed of different rock types. Behind us was a very soft and sandy looking thing, that was bigger still, but unclimbable. In front was a much harder and more compact rock, with a line of shiny resin bolts heading up it. 

 

It was great to be on a bigger climb - this must be one of the longest routes on the island. 

 

 

We climbed the route in 3 pitches rather than the described 5 and topped out happily onto the sheltered sunny ledge. 

 

After the climb we went back down in search of a snorkelling spot. There a small harbour by the cafes and car park, but we decided not to get in and returned for another route instead. The temperature difference between the shade and sun was very noticeable!

 

Thankfully, at the top of the cliff, the old rusty belay stakes had been replaced with something a bit better! 

 

The sun was getting low as we did our last route on the smooth 'motorcycle slab' - so called as the commandos rode up them (winched presumably?) as a display for the Duke of Edinburgh on a visit once?!? As you do. 

 

Topped out at sunset then hurried off to the car as we had to get to our new home to meet the owner. 

It's a serious upgrade from the Gozo apartment! I think we'll be alright here! 

Motorcycle Slabs (Ix-Xaqqa):
- Klin Selvagg, 4,4+,5a,4+,4+**
- Via Francese, 5c**
- Motorpsycho, 6b+*** 

The Tower of Power

Do you follow the Sat Nav, or your gut feeling? When faced with an impossibly steep dirt track that seemed to be heading down a very narrow lane with the possibility of a safe return in no way guaranteed, I decided to go with my instincts and use the common sense approach this morning - i.e ignoring the Sat Nav. Thanks to The Garmin technology, we had quite an exciting time negotiating several very small streets, many rough roads and then some terraced gardens before finally arriving at San Blas - today's Crag of choice - Located in a remote paint balling war zone!

 

There's actually a massive cliff running above the coast here, but most of it was made of soft, crumbly rock, so not ideal for climbing on.

 

Just below the cliffs is a free standing pillar called 'The Tower of Power' due to the steep and hard climbs on it. The weather was perfect and the bigger cliffs sheltered us nicely for the wind. Skins in December gave it a real holiday feel. Nothing like getting a late season vitamin D fix.

 

 

 

The route we climbed was steep and intimidating, but each time we stepped up, a hidden pocket or hand hold would reveal itself. Quality climbing on quality rock and a beauty sea view as well. It had been well worth the epic drive.

 

After a spot of sunbathing and a bite to eat, we scrambled up through the boulders to the base of the more solid part of the big cliff. 

 

It was a good climb. The route on the main cliff was supposed to be better than our previous one, but we thought otherwise. 

 

Once we'd had our fix on the rocks, we walked back to the car above the beautiful San Blass Bay and went for a cooling snorkel at the inlet we went to yesterday. 

 

We had planned on visiting the small island of Comino, to snorkel in the famous 'Blue Lagoon', but after seeing the coach loads of tours shuffling into the boats all bound for the same place, we changed our minds. At the place we chose to snorkel, there was just us, tranquil turquoise waters, quiet blue skies and a few fish. We kind of like it that way. Having had a dip, like yesterday, we went to the west coast for sun set, but this time to see the cliffs by Xlendi. A crazy little sea side town. Check out in the photo how they've built around the sheer walls of an old Quarry! Bonkers! But the do sell a nice pastizzi (cheesy pasty things).

 

 

On the way home (after checking out a few other Crags), we stopped off in Victoria for a quick look around the Citadel. It's a serious building project and well worth a look around - especially after dark.

 

 

San Blas:

Tower of Power:

- Sopu Crack, 6a+**

Sopu Tower Cliffs:

- Wax Job, 5c+***

Boxing Day Bonanza

We managed to do a bit of everything today. Relaxing, climbing, snorkelling and sightseeing. After navigating past a few more amazing churches, (and a few false trails and dead ends), we arrived at this gorge - the cradle of climbing on Gozo. (Note the other random amazing place of worship in the field above!).

The path down into the gorge was probably harder than the climbs themselves and littered with pretty little flowers.

The best routes were on the shady side of the gorge, but it was still pleasantly warm without the direct sunlight.

After doing a few good routes (including one described as 'not to be missed'), we found that we could top out by the road, rather than tackle the path back out. Unfortunately, we realised this a bit late, so Clare had to climb a pretty spicy sport route with the backpack on to save the walk out. Lucky she's hardcore. ;-)

Back up in the sunshine, we sorted the kit and enjoyed laying around in the sun while we had lunch.

 

Then came the best bit - just a few kilometres down the road, there is a stunning secluded natural inlet. Perfect for sunbathing.

And of course - great for snorkelling!

There were loads of fish to see and the water felt warmer than on Christmas Eve.

It was nice to get out and dry off in the sun too. Once the shade reached us though, we moved on and went to see the sun set at the super famous 'azure window' on the west coast and get back in the sunshine! It sure is an impressive sea arch.

But how long will it last before it falls down!?... The authorities were airing on the side of caution!

It's the first place that we've been where there were tourist. Bus loads of them! Inland slightly for the arch was an 'inland sea' with a tunnel that led out to sea, which would have been an exciting through-swim if we'd been earlier in the day. It looks beautiful from this view, but behind the camera are loads of old ramshackled old buildings and an assort of derelict beach huts. It looked a bit like a shanty town and makes you realise how important it is to protect some natural areas from un-checked developments!

Even with the masses though, it was still a nice place to enjoy the sunset.

Mgarr Ix-Xini: - (Italian Walls):
- No Problem, 5b**
- Frantic Desolation, 6a***
- Volanti, 6a** (topped out)