Overnight, the temperature dropped again, indicating that the remaining snow in the mountains of Snowdonia should be morphing into good neve - the best snow for gully climbing. It was well past 1pm, by the time I was heading up into the mountains, but my predictions had at least been correct.
Crampons were needed from low down in the Cwm Cenefion, which made for an easy climb up an ever steepening runnel of snow to the base of Tower Gully. The snow and ice had been packed hard into the back of the rock rift, giving excellent condition for winter climbing. After a short breather to take in the situation I set off upwards.
The weather was calm and I was enjoying myself immensely, getting into the rhythm of the climb. Half way up, below the narrow ice step, I kicked a ledge in the snow to give my calf muscles a quick rest. Suddenly, the wind arrived and in an instant, the situation came far more serious. Behind me and heading my way, graupel, (rimed up pellets of ice the size of peas) were falling from the sky in great quantities. As the maelstrom hit, I just had the time (and sense) to grab my goggles from my pack. Until I got them on, I was temporarily blinded by the deluge. Thankfully, I was relatively sheltered below an overhang and standing on the ledge I made just a few minutes earlier. I decided to wait a few minutes while the worst (hopefully) passed overhead.
The wind was ferocious and loud and the temperature dropped in a instant. As I stood huddled into the rock, my jacket began to frost up. The rounds of grupel we pouring down the gully and should have in-undated my little stance had the wind not been blowing them back uphill! It was like watching a waterfall in the wind. Things eased slightly, after a nervous short while, so I made my move. Assisted by an extreme updraft, I literally got blown up the rest of the climb, stopping only once I’d reached the semi-shelter of the summit ‘Tower’.
It was exhilarating stuff. After a while I moved on towards Corner Gully. The wind by now was so strong that I could barely make forward progress - stronger than I’ve rarely known in North Wales. A gap in the clouds allowed a clear view down Corner Gully, so I decided to descend back down the firm neve into the Cwm. At the base, the fresh snow had accumulated like polystyrene from a ripped bean-bag.
Opposite, on the other side of the Cwm, conditions where slightly sheltered and despite the now very low visibility, I was able to locate the base of Hidden Gully (not actually that hidden if you know where to look!). This gave another great climb; I exited up the easier left hand branch as it was no place to be taking chances.
Knowing the mountain well, I did not need to use map or compass in the whiteness of the storm on top, which was good because back out in the open, it was not the place to be hanging around. I traversed around the clifftop and stomped down the wide gully between the main climbing areas. I stopped briefly to look up a route I had climbed previously. It looked great but I decided a rope and partner would be prudent. I had neither today, so continued down. An emergency shelter ‘bothy bag’ appeared some distance away from me, as the clouds parted. I thought I should check that the occupants were ok, so detoured across to them, happy with my journey around the mountain. The clear plastic window on the side of the shelter was streamed up and those inside declared themselves fine and dandy as a strong smell of cannabis wafted from the air vent! I left them to enjoy the unlikely party in the bothy and hoped that their equipment (which was littered around a outside), didn’t freeze too hard before they needed it. With darkness coming, I continued home my own feeling good. It had been an extreme afternoon and I loved being out in it, making decisions and surviving.
Cwm Cenefion, Ogwen Valley
- Tower Gully, Gd I/II
- Corner Gully, Gd I
- Hidden Gully, GdI/II
- Descent Gully
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