Went for an ‘exploratory’ day up on Glyer Fach Main Cliff with Gaz today.
He was keen to seek out some steeper lines and I was happy to follow. Our initial new routing plan soon changed due to lack of snow and ice, but we did come across East Gully which was well iced up (if only thinly).
Gaz made pretty light work of some very technical and bold climbing up the first and main pitch.
Above this some easier grade snow slopes took us into Main Gully.
Where some good Grade II/III snow and ice continued upwards.
Always keen to sniff out a new mixed route, Gaz trended out of the gully and we climbed a few mixed pitches of frozen turf to the top of Glyder Fach, as snow began to fall.
On the summit, the view began to disappear, so we hurried along as the wind increased.
We just caught sight of the famous ‘cantilever stone’ before heading over to the side of Bristly Ridge.
Here some steep snow slopes helped us loose height quickly.
We were down before dark and just got to glimpse back up at our line of ascent (centre of the main cliffs), before dropping down to Ogwen Cottage.
Glyer Fach Main Cliff:
- East Gully, Gd IV/V
- Main Gully, Gd III
- New Line (probably!) Gd III - right hand upper ribs
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