Friday, 18 August 2023

First Pinnacle Rib Route, (V.Diff)*** Tryfan

There are a few discrepancies between the climbing guidebooks in North Wales about which route is the 'correct' Pinnacle Rib Route on Tryfan. The situation is also made slightly more confusing by the fact that FPR is scratched at the base of more than one route! As I understand it, Overlapping Pinnacle Route, is further to the left as you look at the cliffs (just before the base of South Gully) and First Pinnacle Rib is just to the right of the grassy bay. However, the routes both meet around the Yellow Slab/Pinnacle area, allowing for all the best bits of rock to be linked up and a desired level of difficulty to be accounted for.


We chose to start FPR and then cross over to enjoy the Yellow Slab of the Overlapping Route. The forecast had been for hot temperatures, so we'd set off early with minimal gear, to beat both the heat and the crowds. As it turned out, we found neither as we traversed in along a cold Heather Terrace!


After a blue sky start, clouds had rolled in and a thick, cold mist swirled around us as we set off. With all our layers on, we were left wondering why we'd doused ourselves in sun cream before leaving home!



We swung leads as we made upward progress into the gloom above...


As we traversed over to the Yellow Slab area, we got a glimpse of the valley below at last! 


There was a small wind tunnel forming behind the pinnacle, so we didn't hang around for long, and balanced our way up the rippled texture of the slab. (This can all be avoided at a much easier grade, if you don't fancy it).




Things started to clear up as we reached the North Ridge and the Summit rocks. 


There were only a few folk on top, including a friend who happened to be guiding some friends up to the top, so it was a social finish to the climb!




All that remained was a long descent down the west face, to return to the car. (for reference, The Cottage is just out of sight at the end of the valley).


We were back at The Cottage by early afternoon, where the wind was still blowing, but the garden gave us some good shelter and plenty of sunshine to enjoy the summer vibe, before an evening of dancing in Bangor!

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