Tuesday 15 August 2023

Climbing at Holyhead Mountain

We've had some incredible monsoon style rains here at The Cottage in North Wales, with 48mm falling in just one day! I think that could be a record.


Eventually things brightened up with the promise of better weather in the sunset skies.


It was still dull and damp in the morning when we got up, but luckily we clocked the weather forecast for Holyhead, which was looking considerably better. We quickly changed our afternoon plans of meeting Emma in a cafe, to meeting Emma for an active chat while climbing at Holyhead Mountain.


It was like being on another planet on the island! Full blues skies and roasting hot. Climbing as a three, with Clare as well was the perfect way to catch up on each others summer adventures.


It was good to be climbing some classic rock routes with trad gear as well. Amazingly, we managed to fit in between other teams to climb the exact routes we wanted to.


This climb was a little steeper than I usually like, but it's such an appealing line, that I couldn't rest. It's called Bruvers (HVS, 5a)*** and is really good as it's alarmingly steep, but well protected.




There was a lovely chilled vibe and it was almost too hot to sit at the bottom of the crag!


After a few good routes, we returned to the car and then the beach.


Porth Daffach is only a 5minute drive from Holyhead Mountain, so as we could still see clouds over in the mountains, opted to stay for a swim in the sea!


And why drive home for dinner indoors, when you could eat out on a sun-soaked headland! Clare's forward thinking meant that we were equipped with a blanket and fine foods that warmed us up after our swim.


Once the shadows started to grow long, we decided to return to base for showers and a comfy bed. 


Holyhead Mountain Climbs:
- Tension, VS (4b)**
- Bruvers, HVS (5a)***


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