Tuesday 18 July 2017

Dodgy bolts on Dalle de Boucharo, Gavarnie

A short walk from the top of yet more switchbacks at the Col de Tentes, gets you this fantastic view. As a bonus, there is also a great looking 50m high slab to climb. 



The climbing was good, but sadly the bolts looked terrible and they inspired no confidence in them at all. We chose a semi-equipped route that could be protected by tradition gear as well as having a few bolts along the way. This was the best one we came across.



The rest were either rusty or bent or both. At least the views were good.



Clare got us half way up the cliff to a rusty chain belay that she also backed up. The chain was not equalised and had been put in badly - not your typical French standard. I pushed on up to the top on an 'easy' graded pitch, which turned out to be several grades harder than advertised! There were only a few bolts, and fewer handholds. I had to hold my breath as I padded upwards towards a crack that would take a cam and eventually (thankfully) the top.



We had to re-build the belay as we didn't trust the old gear to abseil off. We always carry some 'emergency cord' for such an eventuality, so quickly made things better - but only as good as the dodgy homemade bolts allowed. We all breathed a sigh of relief when we made it down to the ground.



Barney and Sinead set off in search of a safer crag, but we set our sights on the nearby mountain lake! I'd used some considerable nervous energy and a quick swim was the perfect antidote.





Getting back to the van involved negotiating some big cows...



An attempt was made at finding another crag in the town of Gavarnie, but the heat in the valley was incredible. We made it as far as the river we were supposed to cross!....



Dalle de Boucharo:
- La Ballade des Constractos, IV+
- Sortie รก Droite (apparently IV+ - more like 6a/b!). 


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