Sea Kayaking adventures around Abel Tasman National Park Coastline

What a fantastic day! Sea kayaking around the world famous (to sea kayakers anyway) Abel Tasman National Park coastline. 

As you can see from the pics, there was a bit of cloud cover today. Although that wasn't great for the photos, it did mean that it was a perfectly pleasant temperature for kayaking and we didn't get scorched by the sun!

We started off at Tata Beach where we rented a double kayak. Apparently heading off in two single kayaks is seen as very dangerous to Kiwi kayakers? Anyway, we were quite happy to take the double as we wanted to cover some distance so wanted two of us powering the boat. I'm still baffled by the logic and am yet to receive a rational explination? Any offers? Having gone through the obligatory safety brief we set out around the first couple of islands. There were plenty of Cormorants and Shags perched on the cliffs eyeing us up as we crept past. There was one other 'guided' group in the vicinity, which we soon managed to loose and after that, we pretty much had the coastline to ourselves! A far cry from the southern end of the park near Motueka where there were tour boats, jet skis, trekking trails and loads of kayak groups. It looked like we'd made a good decision to carry on to the quieter northern shores.

After rounding the first headland into Wainui Bay, we decided to make a big 3km open water crossing to Taupo Point. This meant we'd be leaving the last bit of road acessable coastline and heading into the wilds! Half way across, something big and black loomed out of the water! It then started thrashing around as if it was eating something! Whale or Fur Seal? We weren't sure and got as close as we dared before it disappeared into the deep blue yonder! Very exciting non the less! We made landfall just past the headland on an idyllic deserted sandy beach, Robinson Crueso style.

We had a bite to eat, then got the snorkels out and had a swim around our private bay. Not many fish about (except for some brilliant star fish), but there were loads of big and brightly coloured shells. The water was crystal clear.

We then continued eastwards to 'Seperation Point' where there was a small Gannett colony and bizarrely, some plastic Gannett replicas and a loud speaker blaring out 'Gannett noises'! (To help attract more recruits we later found out!). Past Seperation Point we could see all the way down the coastline of the Abel Tasman National Park and could even make out a few people on the beaches in the distance.

They kayak company had given us a

sketch map of the coastline which we decided to consult to check out progress, only to find out that the words 'exposed and difficult coastline - no kayaking' had been written over our current location! It was very exposed, but the conditions made it perfectly safe today. We'd come along the coast as far as we'd planned, and having checked the weather before leaving, knew that the wind and tide would help drift us home from here.

The wind picked us as required in the afternoon, and we were able watch the cliffs and wildlife as we floated along with the breeze at our backs. We called into a little cove to say hi to a Fur Seal. He came off the rocks to suss us out and swam gracefully under the boat before doing a few rolls then returning to his rock to sun bath. Shortly after a Blue Penguin popped up next to us and swam along side for a bit!

Staying a bit closer to land we did a bit of rock dodging and squeezed through this rock arch.

With the wind behind us, we'd made good time on the crossing back, so found another small sheltered bay for another snack and of course a swim. 

We got back to base at 5pm and having just covered some 20km of coastline were starting to feel justifiably tired. What a treat it then was to remember that we had one more night of luxury in 'The Adventure B&B'. A short drive later, we were freshly showered and enjoying a drink in a comfy chair on the terrace. Great Days. Excellent!

Climbing at Paynes Ford

Hoorah! I'm back on par! And with the fantastic excuse to eat and drink as much as possible to build myself back up! Time to get back on the rock and start being awesome again! 

We went straight out to the climbing area of Paynes Ford today. It's not the biggest cliff in the world, (surprisingly small actually) but the rock was a decent quality at least and it was nice a shady. Clare was 'rope-gun' for the day putting up most of the routes as I was (semi) taking it easy. (Very sensible I hear you say). We'd had to clean our ropes before leaving the North Island as the ground below the crags are so dusty, they'd become filthy. This time we were prepared with a classic kiwi 'rope tarp' to keep things clean.

It was a quick walk to the crag, through more 'jungle forest', which gave the cliffs plenty of shade and kept them nice and cool. The climbs were fun, but it's a shame they aren't four times as long!

As this was day one 'back on the rock' after my enforced 'time-out' we decided to just do a few routes then come back to the house for lunch. It was a fine plan in theory, but we ended up doing our usual over excited thing and ended up staying until nearly four o'clock. By then the sun was well on the crag making it too hot to climb - our arms were too tired and I was starving anyway!

A coffee and cake break (after a monster scrambled egg on toast session) perked us back up enough to get down to the beach for a swim. The tide had just come in and the water felt positively warm. Maybe the hot sand heated it up? It really was nice though! 

Then, to celebrate my return to the land of the living, we went to the 'Dangerous Kitchen' Cafe in town, and got ourselves some lovely big pizzas! Just what the doctor ordered! Sort of. 

Taking it easy in Takaka

Limited movements to report today. After a night best forgotten and a morning trip to the local doctors, we've (I've) been resting and recouperating at what's turned out to be the lap of luxury. Clare did a fine job of sourcing us a place for the night (and most of the day as well!) in the newest B&B on the edge of Takaka township. A huge bathroom and wooden floored, cool bedroom has been the perfect place to 'recover' from my recent wooes. Am showered, scrubbed, shaved and already feeling better for it!

Thank you for such fine hospitality! If anyone happens to be in the area, we can certainly recommend a stay at 'The Adventure B&B' near Takaka (it's listed on airbnb.com or ask at the tourist office).

Kiwi Hospitality

Well who would have thought it. After multiple trips into the depths of Africa and remote mountain journeys in and above the jungles of South America, I end up getting what has felt like my worst ever 'travel bug' here in the civilised, clean and pleasant land of New Zealand! 

However, what better place for feel a bit crook for a few days, as once again the legendary Kiwi hospitality trait has left us feeling humbled and unbelievably greatful. This time it's completely off the scale of being nice though! Our hosts last night (despite going away on a hiking trip tonight) have suggested that as I don't look like I ought be off sea kayaking just yet, we should stay in their house until I'm better! Apparently we have trust worthy faces?! Could you imagine letting a couple of strangers look after your house after meeting them for an evening?! Although the offer is unnecessarily generous, we have of course accepted and I'm already feeling much better. And who wouldn't when this is a few minutes down the road...

After a hearty breakfast of dry toast (for me), we took ourselves off to the nearby beach to check out the local neighbourhood. The place is totally stunning. And compared to the southern end of the Abel Tasman National Park, pretty much deserted. The closest beach in Golden Bay is only a few minutes drive from the house, but just past it is Tata Beach (see photo below).

And a few minutes beyond that, we found ourselves at Wainui Bay and where we hope to kayak across at some point.

After checking out the kayak hire situation for future reference, and deciding not to hike up to waterfall we returned to the beach. Clare went for a dip, but I had to be content with a dip of my toes. 

I went back to the pad for an afternoon siesta while Clare went into Takaka to have a look around what I'm told is a very funky town with a very fine smoothie cafe.

And now here we are, house sitting this beautiful home. How does this happen to us?! Very very greatful...

Down By The River - Paynes Ford

Woke up feeling glad that we'd not gone sea kayaking! Then groaned a bit, rolled over and went back to sleep. Had an extra long lie-in before attempting a bit of breakfast. We've decided to head further north to 'the end of the road' and a climbing area called Paynes Ford, then maybe go for the sea kayak on the way back. 

The road was super windy and very steep. Wendy (The van) took it in her stride, but we were kind enough to give her a short rest when we stopped to walk out to a view point near the summit.

On arrival at Paynes Ford, the climbers campsite was a pretty full. This turned out to be a blessing in disguise though as we are currently parked up by a quiet little river spot which is much more our style.

I wasn't really feeling up to dragging myself up some steep limestone (I must be ill!), so we left the climbing kit in the van and took a walk along the base of the crag instead to see what was there.

Once again, our climbing guidebook got us to another splendid place. We noticed that on the sketch map of the cliffs, there was a little arrow pointing to the river with the words 'Top swimming hole' scribbled on it. Intrigued, we set out to see what we could find. Unlikely as it was (most of the main river was virtually bone dry), we soon came across the swimming holes! The first was in a deep mini gorge, where there was a small track leading to a good looking 'jump in' launch site. It looked a bit energetic for my current condition, so we carried on through the meadow a little further to the second one which was on a sharp bend in the river; the erosion of which had created a very deep and sheltered pool. 

This one seemed much more inviting, and relatively warm (compared to recent dips in the sea). It felt like a much needed tonic. 

Here at camp (further down the same 'Takaka River), we've had a chilled evening spending a bit of time skipping stones as the sun went down.

Time Out at Motueka - Able Tasman National Park

It was a pretty spectacular drive over the hills to get out of the Marlbrough Region.

Eventually the road came right back down to the seaside at Nelson, where we stopped briefly to fill up our water tank.

From Nelson, we continued along the coast to Motueka. We stopped for 'Kafe und Kuchen' by the beach while we hatched a plan for the next few days.

The initial plan had been to hire kayaks and head off up the coast for a day or two on a mini expedition, but I was starting to feel a little under par, so we decided to camp up and rest rather than rushing straight off into a kayaking trip! 

Good job too, as I was rapidly beginning to feel decidedly ropey. Managed a walk along the beach past an old ship wreck before finding myself a little comfy spot in the van to curl up and 'rest'. 

Clare cooked up a stunning dinner of Halloumi Burgers, (with hummus, cucumber, tomato and avocado) but unfortunately I was in no fit state to fully enjoy the culinary creations!

Early to bed were Nurse Martin's orders, and I was happy to oblige. We are now reading 'The Lost World' by A.C.Doyle (or should I say, currently Clare is reading and I am listening). It's really well written and super exciting - especially as we've been in amongst 'jungle' terrain recently. Thankfully though, there are no snakes, spiders (or dinosaurs) in New Zealand!